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A WANDERER'S JOURNAL 



<^^C> 



BY 



ELIZABETH A. SMITH 



PRIVATELY PRINTED 

New York 

1889 



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A WANDERER'S JOURNAL 



Dec. \, 1885. — Started from Duncan City, Cheboygan 
Co., Mich., in company with my sister and her hus- 
band (Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Macdonough), their son, a 
boy of fourteen, and daughter, a baby of seventeen 
months, for Detroit, Mich., by the Michigan CentraL 
We had to change cars once. The weather was snowy 
and cold ; but the dear baby only laughed, instead of 
crying, when waiting in the station, or on the platform, 
and did not seem at all frightened at the whistle, or the 
bustling around her. We arrived in the city late in the 
evening, and took rooms at the Biddle House, on JeiTer- 
son avenue, which we had heard was fitted up, in ele- 
gant style. — Alas, the disappointment ! The furniture 
iiad been oiled with fish-oil, and so disagreeable was the 
odor, that there was no thought of staying there. AVe 
were very glad to change to the Brunswick, on the 
following day, where we were more comfortable; al- 
though my room was very cold, I was glad to escape 
from the more cheerful atmosphere of our first lodg- 
ing. 



4 A AVANDERER S .lOURXAL 

Dec. '^ith.—^Q started for AVashington, via Buffalo, 
N. Y., where we stayed all night, at the Tifft House. 
Here Ave stopped in 1883, Avith father, on our way from 
the sea-shore. I amused myself part of the time, by 
watching the people passing, in sleighs, and on foot, 
through the falling snow, there being good sleighing. 
Irt going we crossed the new bridge over the Niagara 
river. The bells on the horses sounded so much like 
cow-bells that we were quite merry as we drove through 
the streets from the hotel. 

Dec. Sfh. — We rode in a sleigh to the station of the 
Erie railroad, which w^e took as far as Elmira, N. Y., 
where we changed for the Lehigh A^alley railroad. The 
Pullman cars are commodious, but sleeping for me being 
almost an impossibility in a car, I peered nearly all 
night into the darkness ; and could sometimes see the 
steep inclines, down which the cars sped with an un- 
steady motion, that impelled me to offer little petitions 
for safety. 

Dec. 9tJi. — In Washington at about 9 o'c^.ock a.m., in 
a sprinkle of rain, which increased to a downpour, 
after we had reached the Ebbitt, in a closed carriage. 
We took breakfast, rested and bathed, and went down 
to a five o'clock dinner. Mr. Macdonough and his son 
Thompson went out to look for rooms. 

Dec. 10 fJi. — From the windows of our parlor there is a 
view of the Washington Monument, which is square in 



AVASHINGTON ^ 

form, tapering to a point like an obelisk. It is built of 
blocks of marble, of different kinds, from different coun- 
tries. We can also see the gardens of the Smithsonian 
Institute, the Potomac river and the heights on the 
other side. To-day there are little gleams of sunshine. 
At the station we saw .the silver star, marking the spot 
where Garfield was shot. Yet people walked over it, as 
though the spot were common, ignoring or not knowing 
the fact that sacred blood was there spilled. There is 
a memorial of marble on the wall, with a box- under it 
to hold offerings for a charitable institution. 

Just a year ago, on the 0th, our dear father died in 
slow agony ; and we wished that he nvght have 
been spared the suffering that he endured. If I could 
have come here in my youth with father and mother, I 
would have much enjoyed the trip. But now all seems 
sad without them. If my sister and her family are im- 
])roved in health, it will be well, even if I am iu)t l)etter. 
It is, after all, difficult to procure the comfoits of liome 
in traveling especially if one is not strong. We can see 
a red brick building looking brilliant in the evening 
with its many lights. 

Dec. 11///.— Changed to Mrs. Bunkers, 623 Penn- 
sylvania avenue, where we took rooms for a week, and 
had the odd, but quite disagreeable experience of having 
meals brought from across the street and served in our 
rooms. This experience would have been rather funny, 
if it had not been for the care and annoyance caused by 
having a table of viands in the rooms in which we 



A wanderer's journal 

slept. We were amused by the various modes of con 
veyance quite new to me, of course. The hansoms, 
drawn by one horse, with the driver behind, with two 
wheels, and room for two people, with doors half glass to 
be opened or shut at pleasure ; the herdic cab, also 
with two wheels, the doors behind, seats each side, with 
windows all around, the square box as it appeared, the 
driver sitting in front, this also drawn by one horse ; and 
herdic coaches, with one hoTse, and seats on the side, 
holding each about six or eight people ; fare five cents. 
The air in them is very close, as they are generally 
packed Avith passengers. There are five-cent cars, two 
horses ; and three cent-cars, drawn by one horse. 

Dec. \otli. Suhdaij. — A rainy day. Sister Allie'sdear 
little baby ill. 

Dec. l4:tJi. Monday. — Another damp day ; but no one 
seems to mind it, although both coachmen and horses 
have to be fully protected by oilcloth coats and cover- 
ings. 

Dec. lijfh. Tuesday. — Invited by ^Irs. Bunker. I 
went with her in a herdic coach to the Capitol, where 
we walked through one hall, looking at the side halls, 
decorated with paintings of birds and flowers, land- 
scapes, and heads of celebrated men. On the wall to 
the right as we entered is a picture of Fulton and 
the Hudson river before him, beautified by his first 
steamer. 



AVASHINGTON < 

Dec. H')th. Wednesdai/. — (j\miiged. rooms to 1410 
Pennsylvania avenuGj kept by a German wlio has a cafe 
and dining-room on the first floor. The rooms are very 
bright and nattily furnished, and there is a French 
tonch about them, evidently having been beautified with 
laste rathei- than expense. The floors iiave carpets, ar- 
ranged as rugs in the center ; the woodwork between 
the carpets and wall being oiled. The doors, door trim- 
mings and baseboards are also finished in light colored 
oak, which gives a very bright appearance to the rooms. 
This arenue presents a very busy aspect all of the 
week, as well as Sundays, with the constant tramp of 
the horses' feet. Thei-e are so many kinds of carriages, 
cabs, coaches, five-cent and three-cent cars, private 
carriages, some with cnachmen and footmen, single car- 
riages, dog carts, ladies driving their own little carts, 
buggies, hacks, hotel omnibuses, coupes, express teams, 
hay w^agons, some drawn by four horses, some by five — 
driver riding on one horse — that there never seems to 
be. any cessation until past midnight. 



Friday, Dec. \Sfli. — Mr. Macdonough,Thompson and 
I went to the Capitol in a herdic coach. I think that 
these herdic coaches are rather airless and stifling, 
though convenient, as they are driven to the sidewalk, 
thus avoiding the necessity of crossing the street. I en- 
joyed looking at the fine paintings, in the rotunda of the 
Capitol, the faces being lifelike and earnest, especially 
in the ^" Embarkation of the Pilgrims from Holland." 
Of the statues, I admired that of Garfield, and particu- 



8 A wanderer's journal 

Icirly that of Fulton, holding. Id his hand the model of 
his first steamboat. His face is fine and intellectual. I 
did not like quite as well the statue of Lafayette. The 
statue of Governor AVinthrop is especially grand, and 
where the frilled and lace shirt bosoms are worn, the 
representation is perfect. There is also hanging on the 
wall a fine painting of Garfield ; particularly impressive 
are the faces in these pictures. In the firsts Lincoln and 
his cabinet; every face expresses earnestness, character 
of high type is stamped on every feature, nobility of 
soul, of purpose looks forth from every eye. '• West- 
ward Ho " stamps indelibly on the mind the figures of 
the eager hopeful seekers for new homes, Avith their 
faces turned ever toward the goal where they expect to 
reap the reward of ^their struggles in abundant harvests 
and happy homes. 

Dec. l^fJi. Saturday. — Thompson Macdonough and I 
rode in the five-cent cars to Georgetown and return. 
Saw a house there built of old-time brick. We looked 
into the canal ; and saw a little of the Potomac, with the 
hills in the distance. 

Dec. '20fh. Sunday. — Walked in the afternoon as 
far as the Treasury-grounds, again enjo^dng a glimpse of 
the distant hills, though the walk was rather lonely. 

Dec. 21st. Monday. — Went with Mr. Macdonough 
and Thompson to the Capitol. Sat for a few minutes 
in the House of Representatives. We Avandered through 



WASHINGTON ^ 

the halls, and saw and admired the painting of ''' Lincoln 
Signing the Emancipation Proclamation " in the midst 
of his cabinet. Also ''' AV est ward IIo " and beneath it, 
the 'Hxolden Gate'' by Bierstidt. Came, down the 
stone steps in front of the Capitol, looking with pleasure 
at the statuary and enjoying the fresh air. 

Dec. 22d. Tucsdai/. — Went witli Thompson Ma-jdon- 
ougii to the shops, to buy some dollies for my niece- 
baby. 

Dec. 2od. Wediieschdj. — Walked quite a long way. I 
do not think, the shops prettier than in Detroit, 
though they are decorated with every care for Christ- 
mas, and full of toys of all kinds, and pretty confections. 
A chair made of candy was quite unique. There were, 
also, baskets made of pink and white candy. We stopped 
near the Centre Market, to see some English holly. 
The colored people had it for sale, as also letters and 
wreaths made of white moss — resembling that which is 
found clinging to fir trees on the shores of the Northern 
lakes — with leaves, and holly berries, and the red ber- 
ries of a shrub which the colored people called spice- 
bush, which looks like a shrub that grows in the sAvamps 
of Michigan. 

Friday, 2bth Dec. — Our Christmas spent very quiet- 
ly. Thompson Macdonough arranged a Santa Clans 
display of a few toys and tops, for Baby Mary May, on a 
bureau wTeathed with green. We also put some branches 



10 A WANDERER S JOURNAL 

of liolly in the vases on the parlor mantel, and my 
nephew gave me a green wreath which I hung on my 
bureau. 

Derrmbi'T ;)0, 188G. — Mr. and Mrs. Macdonough, 
'l.liompson and I visited the National Museum. AV'e 
saw a suit of clothes that had been worn by AVashington, 
two sets of dishes— blue delf and china; some glassware, 
some old chests, some knives and forks, Avith peculiar 
metal handles; the old chair in which he last sat; liis 
camp equipments — memorials that speak of close eco- 
nomical appointments in many Avays, and of splendor and 
good living in other respects. There were two old por- 
traits of General and Mrs. AVashington. The statue of 
Washington and tlie Indian group Avere very lifelike. 
The great palms, surrounding the gold-fish pond, 
seemed a refreshing sight in the midst of so uiany old 
relics. The animals needed a much longer time to ad- 
mire the beauty of some, and to Avonder at the hideous- 
ness of others. I Avould have liked to stay longer 
among the minerals and boats, the former so. beautiful; 
the latter so curious, especially the lifeboats, and the 
various canoes and boats of different tribes, and of dif- 
ferent stations. We glanced at the medals, and the let- 
ters of eminent men, and the jeAvels. The models of 
towns belonging to ancient tribes found in Arizona 
evince skill, and the mound builders, found in North 
Carolina, are wonderful. I must not forget to mention 
the aerolites, and the elegant specimens of marble, at 
Avhich we glanced Avitli a Avish that one could return to 



WASHINGTON 11 

give more time to an exhibit in which there is so mnch to 
see, so mnch nsef nl information, so many of the wonders 
of the earth, and so mnch hnman skill displayed. We 
glanced at the great variety of mnsical instrnments, and 
left the bnilding, not having any more strength or time, 
bnt glad that we had the opportunity of seeing so much 
of the curious and beautiful. 

The huts of the ancient tribes were oval in form— a 
grey mud color — and appeared like clay mounds. 

On Jan. \sf. — Mother's birthday. I placed some flow- 
ers near father's and mother's pictures. My sister Allie, 
Mrs. Macdonough, gave me a hunch of violets. 
New Year's day was bright and warm. From my win- 
dow I watched the procession going to call on the Presi- 
dent. 

Jan. StJt. — Thompson Macdonough and I took a ride 
in the street cars around the city for five cents, which 
we thought a very cheap excursion. 

Saturdai/, dfh.— Took a short walk a.m. Very cold 
weather with snow and sleighing. The reports are of 
terrible cold all over the country, even far South. In 
Manitoba, N. W., from 50° to G4° minus. 

Sunday, Jan. 10/A.— Thompson Macdonough and I 
went to St. John's Church. It is a quaint old church of 
historic association on account of several presidents hav- 
ing belonged to it. 



12 A WANDERER S JOURNAL 

Jan. lltJi. Mojiday. — Mrs. Macclonongh and I went 
to G street, to order some work at the Industrial school 
kept by the Sisters of Charity (Roman Catholic), who in 
their pretty bluish-grey dresses and white bonnets with 
large capes, rosary and crosses at their side, and with their 
agreeable manners, are very interesting, and quite win 
one's admiration. 

Jan. 12 th. Tuesday, v.y\. — I took a short walk, 
and rode in the three-cent cars to Eighteenth street and 
return. From three p.m. to nine o'clock in the evening, 
there was what was termed a carnival, which was sim2:)ly 
a rallying of sleighs and cutters of various kinds ; and 
their occupants put the horses to all the speed thev 
dare for sleigh rides, and to use the snow while it 
lasted. There were one or two comic features, one an 
advertisement in the form of a board house coA^ered Avitli 
paper, another, a common sled, with men and women 
in masques and grotesque costumes, as a woman fanning 
herself in derision, a man j)laying a musical instrument. 
I think the Carnival was only a name for enjoying the 
sleighing while the snow lasted. Policemen, tall and 
stalwart, moderated the speed of the revellers, and saw 
that pedestrians were not knocked down — a wise precau- 
tion — for when cars, herdics, hansoms, cabs, sleighs, 
double and single, are all being driven at full speed, 
though the streets are broad, crossing becomes danger- 
ous especially to ladies. 

Jan.lWi. Wednesday p.m. — Mr. Macdonough went 
with me to the Botanical Gardens. The ferns are vei-v 



WASHINGTON 



13 



beautiful. I admired them more than any of tlie 
strange and varied products of all countries. I saw 
banana trees growing, with their clusters of fruit— not 
yet ripe. The orchids were very odd. Many were gro- 
tesque in form. Some of the blossoms, of which there 
were few, were beautiful. The gardener told us that 
blooms were not left long ungathered. 

Jan. \Uh. Thursday.— Took a short walk. We have 
had very cold, clear weather. The temperature has 
risen a little, though yet rather low ; and the sleighing 
is not yet used, though it is now nearly a week since 
the snow storm. 

Jan. loth. Friday.— \Nq, Mr. and Mrs. Macdon- 
ough and I went to G street by herdic, down Penn- 
sylvania avenue to the stores, where we made a few 
purchases, looked into the store windows, and home 
again to our apartments. 

Jan. I6th. Saturday.— Mv. Macdonough went with 
me to the State, War and Navy Departments, where we 
saw in the library, the renowned Senator Evarts. He 
is quite a small man. We saw the original Declaration 
of Independence and the desk on which it was written. 
The names of the signers are nearly obliterated. We 
also saw a sword that belonged to Washington, the 
silver urn presented to General Hull, and a missile sent 
by the French government to the United States, as a 
memorial of the French Commune. 



u 



A WANDERER 8 JOURNAL 



Jcui.Vith. Snnd(iij.^X very quiut day ; I tried a 
Avalk, but tlie frozen rain and ice on the pavements 
rendered walking dangerous. 

y^^ii- ^^^t^>- M(>}ir/(ff/.—Mv. and Mrs. Macdonougli, 
Tliompsou and I went across to Union Town, in Vir- 
ginia, and took :\Iadame Fleischman, our landlady, Avitli 
us. We took the five-cent Pennsylvania avenue cars to 
the ]\avy Yard. From there a three-cent car carried us 
across the east branch of tlie Potomac. There are 
some pretty houses on the top of the hills. On an ex- 
treme height is a lunatic asylum, to which we did not 
go. At the foot of the hill is a characteristic store kept 
by colored people. We saw in the water the Monitor, 
celebrated in the war with the Southern States. 

Jan. 20flt. Weduesda I/. —Mrs. Macdonough and I 
and Thompson went to the industrial school to see about 
some work. 

Jan. '2-2(1. Fri d a i/.~Thomi:>son Macdonough and I 
went in aherdiccoach up to Fifteenth st., to New York 
avenue, up New York avenue to H st., and returned 
the same way. The street is quite pretty, lined with 
trees on either side, forming in summer a leafy boAver. 

Jan. 23d. Saturday.— Took a ride in a herdic cab, 
around the Capitol and White House. 

Jan. 2U]i. Sundai/.—Mv. Macdonough and I went 
to the First Congregational Church on the corner of G 
and Tenth streets, and heard a very good sermon on 



WASHINGTON 15 

faith in God and trust in man. '• In all our lives, in all 
we do, we walk by faith," said the speaker, ''and as the 
little child, learning to walk, has faith that it will be 
helped by its mother's outstretched arms, so we must 
walk trusting to the help from God, which will be held 
out to us, in our efforts to do right." The text was 
Hebrews, 11th chapter, 1st verse. The church is large, 
built of brick. It has a fine organ and good music. 

Jan. '2bth. Mondaij. — K rainy, misty day ; l3ut in 
the afternoon, I went in the car to a store on Pennsyl- 
vania avenue, where views are sold, and bought two 
dozen for three dollars. 

Jan. 26tJi. Tuesday. — My sister and I went to G 
street, then to Pennsylvania avenue. The afternoon 
was bright, mild and sunny, and my sister's baby who 
was with us, in her nurse's arms, was as bright as the 
day. 

Jan. 28th. Tliursdai/. — Went to a store, and bought 
some more Washington views. 

Jan. 30th. Saturdaij. — Bright p. m. when I went 
alone, down Pennsylvania avenue, in street car ; looked 
into some stores, made some purchases, and returned. 

Jail. 31st. Sunday. — Mr. Macdonough and I went to 
the First Congregational Church, and heard a sermon 
on peace, by a brother of Gen, Howard. 

Feb. bth. Friday. — Bitterly cold, with snow on the 
ground. I went in a three-cent car up Pennsylvania 



16 A WANDERER^S JOURNAL 

avenue to a book-store^ where I bought some paper and 
a book for Mary May Macdonougli my little niece, and 
returned in a herdic coach. Was a little nervous, not 
being accustomed to going in the street alone. 

Feb. Sth. Monday. — Went to G- street, and down 
Pennsylvania avenue. I lost my way a little, and had 
to walk in the slushy snow for quite a distance. The 
newspapers talk of the danger of a flood, from the 
breaking up of the ice in the river. 

Feb. 14///. Sundai/. — Valentine's day. AVeather all 
day very warm and bright. In the evening, I went 
with Mr. Macdonough to the Congregational Church, and 
heard an excellent sermon and beautiful music and 
singing. The organ is played by a blind professor, and 
their choir sang in perfect accord. The discourse was 
arranged to show that capabilities for evil were equally 
capabilities for good if rightly used. 

Feb. \bili. Mondaij.—ln the afternoon, I went down 
Pennsylvania avenue in a herdic coach, after having been 
to G street. Met my sister, who had gone with her baby 
and nurse Annie, who wheeled the baby carriage. I went 
into some shops, and came home in time to escape a rain 
storm, and to see Mrs. Bunker, in whose rooms we 
boarded for a short time, and Avho was very kind to us 

Feb. \Qtli. Taef^dajj. — Much coolei', even cold, from 
which we suffeied a little ; for we had packed our furs 
A.M. My nephew persuaded me to go to the bird store 



WASHINGTON lY 

with him. We saw there some very tine birds. Among 
them was a cardinal bird which reminded me of a pet bird 
of the same kind which we once possessed, and in whose 
pretty dainty ways, bright coloring, and warbling mel- 
ody, in early Spring, we delighted. By taking Innch 
and dinner down stairs, I again succeeded in going down 
Pennsylvania avenue shopping. 

Feb. VI th. — I went with Mr. Macdonough to see the 
White House. We were shown into the great East 
Room where large receptions are held. There is quite 
a pretty view from the windows over the grounds, and 
the river and hills beyond in Virginia. The true orna- 
ment of the room is, I think, the portrait of Martha 
Washington. She is standing, and is lovely of counte- 
nance, and stately in a dress of wdiite silk or satin 
slightly trained over a petticoat of some material red in 
color. Then we were shown a kind of hall, where were 
hung portraits of Lincoln, Garfield, and several presi- 
**dents. The Green Room, the Blue Room, furnished in 
blue and gilt, where are the portraits of President 
Arthur, Mrs. Hayes, wife of President Hayes, Mrs. 
Tyler, wife of President Tyler — dressed as a bride— 
and Mrs. Taylor, another president's wife. On the 
mantel is a gilt clock, presented by Lafayette to Wash- 
ington, and some very old furniture brought from 
seclusion by President x\rthur and placed here. The 
Red Room, tlie family parlor, is a cosy room. The 
usher very kindly showed us thror.gh the conservatory, 
where we sjiw aaaleas, hyp.^iiiths and cii^ierarias in very 



18 A wanderer's journal 

beautiful bloom. There was, also, an orchid ; one part 
of the flower had the form of a nun. 

Feb. ISfJi. Thursday.— \<Qni to hear some ladies 
speak at a Woman's Rights' Convention. Saw and 
heard Susan B. Anthony, Mrs. Mary Eastman, of Massa- 
chusetts, Mrs. Sewel, and others. Was quite surprised 
and pleased at the appearance of Miss Anthony, who, 
instead of being tall, angular, and uncouth, as I sup- 
posed, is rather small, and very ladylike. The conven- 
tion was held at the Universalist church, on the corner 
of Thirteeeth street and L. We took the car to New 
York avenue, where w^e had an exchange to Fourteenth 
street, and walked about half a block. 

Feh. 19.-/i. Friday. — AVent in the street car to the 
optician's. 

Feb. 2'2d. WasMngton' s Birthday. — We started for 
Jacksonville, Florida, passing, after leaving North Caro- 
lina, through a very swampy country, settled apparently 
almost altogether by colored people, some very poor, in 
houses and huts thatched, the chimneys being on the 
outside some of the dwellings built of sand or clay, in a 
framework of wood. There were some settlements, 
where houses were new, well built, and whitewashed, the 
land cleared and cattle grazing in the enclosures, al- 
tliough it hardly seemed as if, in some places, there could 
l;c verdure enough for food. There seemed to be un- 
limited tracts of red 'pine of small growth, which was 



JACKSONVILLE 19 

being cut into piles of wood for burning. We also saw 
several saw-mills. 

Tuesday, 2?id. — We arrived in Jacksonville about 
noon, tired and dusty, and took the omnibus to the Ho- 
tel Everett. 

Wednesday, Feb. 24:fh. — A little warmer, though we 
do not find the weather uncomfortable. The leaves and 
fruit of the orange trees have been blighted by the win- 
ter's extreme and, as Ave are told, unusual cold and frost; 
therefore we cannot see the white blossoms, which we 
hoped to see adorning the trees in beauty. 

Friday, Feb. 2(}fli. — I walked on the broad piazza a 
few moments, listened to some fine singing in the large 
parlor — my sister's baby enjoying, also, the music. Es- 
pecially good was the sweet old song ^'Kathleen Ma- 
vourneen." In the evening heard a band play some 
fine selections. 

• Saturday, Feb. 2Uh. — Moved into rooms on the fourth 
floor, Avith a fine view of the river and the country 
around Jacksonville. 

Tuesday, March 2d. — Cleur and sunny. Took a ride 
in the street cars drawn by mules, with colored driver. 
We saAV peach trees in bloom, and Avild clematis, yellow 
in color of blossoms about an inch in length, half an inch 
Avidth, tapering like a morning glory, and funnel shaped. 

'lliursday, March 4:th. — Sunshine early, a.m. cloudy. 
The rest of the day rainy. Mr. Macdonough and his son 
Thompson have taken a trip to Green Cove. 



20 A avatsderer's journal 

Saturday, March G/'/^— Trees budding— took a short 
walk. 

Sunday, March 1th.— ^h. Macdouough, my brother- 
in-law, went with me to a pretty church built of wood, 
small and neat. We learned that the money for its 
erection was contributed by a Avealthy grocer, who de- 
voted much of his time and money toward supporting 
it. After the services, we walked a little way while 
waiting for the cars, and saw peach trees in bloom, roses 
in bud, and ^^ellow jasmine which, we are told, is poi- 
sonous, if brought near the mouth, though ladies at the 
hotel come in with large sprays of it on their dresses, as 
corsage bouquets. 

Thursday, March llth.—^lw Macdonough and his son 
Thompson have gone to Enterprise, which is about half 
a day's journey from Jacksonville. 

Saturday, March loth.—l took a walk to see some 
Florida curiosities. The alligators did not appear to me 
so disgusting as I had thought ; and the wild cat looked 
like a beautiful pussy of greyish brown color. I think 
tli:-t the custom of teazing animals in captivity — as 
punching the alligator, as it lay in a tank of water, to 
liear it roar — is wrong, and only increases the wild- 
noss and ferocity of their nature. 

Thursday, March 18//^— Walked around by the St. 
James Hotel to a curiosity shop, and bought some 
ti'iilos. Very, vory tired ! 



JACKSON VrLLR 21 

Friday, March 19//^. — Took a long drive through 
some streets in Jacksonville and suburbs. AVe saw 
some very pretty residences with grounds by the river 
side. The localities were named Riverside, Brooklyn, 
Lavilla. The woods are beginning to put on their 
Spring garb. Thompson Macdonough gathered some 
dogwood blossoms, which are much larger than at the 
North. My sister took her baby ; and the child's de- 
light was delightful to see and hear. The magnolia 
leaves looked very pretty and green ; and the grey moss 
hanging from the trees had a very weird effect. Were 
it not for the tropical foliage, here and there, one 
would fancy this to be a northern wood. The road 
led to the river St. John, where was a pebbly beach. 
In coming home, we went to see the Jacksonville water- 
works. The water flows from a sulphur sf)ring, is puri- 
fied by the exposure to the air, and then conveyed in 
pipes to supply the town. 

Mondaij, March 22<:?.— We all took a long drive in the 
suburbs of Jacksonville. We passed a grove of orange 
trees, just budding into leaf, and returned home with 
some curious yellow flowers. The odor of the 
Florida flowers is rather oppressive to those un- 
accustomed to the heavy perfume. Some of the 
woods seemed rich in luxuriant trees and vines. Then 
would occur a waste of pine woods, barren and lonely. 
The driver pulled some of the grey moss from the 
trees, when, behold, a tiny snake was curled up in it. 
Then we secured another piece, which was lost by the 



22 A wanderer's journal 

motion of the wagon: so that, after all, I was indebted to 
a flower-girl for a bunch of the odd grey streamer to 
take homo. 

Tuesday, March 2od. i\m. — Went to Pablo Beach. 
It is a beautiful stretch of sand, wdiite and firm. My 
sister took her baby, wiio, seated on her father's coat, 
Avhich was spread on the sand, made a pretty picture 
in Jier white dress and cap, laughing and playing with 
the sand and shells, some of which we also gathered as 
we roamed on the beach. Quite an odd, but commodi- 
ous hotel w^as being built on the bluff above the beach. 
An eccentric officer. General Spinner, and family were 
living in a tent near the hotel. 

Wednesdai/, JIarch 24rfJ/. — Took a short ride on the 
street cars, and a walk. 

Tliursdaij, March '2ofh. — Warm and bright. Went 
to the Florida Floral Exhibit. I Avas quite interested in 
the fruit and flowers. There were pansies, iris blooms, 
the lilies of the countr}-, camellias and violets, all hav- 
ing blossomed in the open air. 

Friday, March 'liifh. — Made some purchases at the 
Palmetto store, which is a short distance from the hotel, 
and to which I walked. A beautiful Indian woman sells 
pretty w^ork, and a white woman sells various baskets 
and hats made of palmetto strips, a bunch of which I 
bought as a curiosity. 



JACKSONVILLE 23 

Saturday, March 27th. — Warm. Walked a short 
distance, and went in a street car toward tlie wood by 
the river side. 

Tuesday, March 30th. — Clear, cooler, high winds. 
Thunder and lightning at night. 

Thursday, Jjml 1st. — Cold and clear. Wisteria in 
hloom. 

Saturday, Ajjril 3d. — I took a walk to the shell 
store. Such a pretty store ! The shells are brought 
principally from the Bahamas. There were lovely de- 
signs in sprays of flowers and leaves, made of shells and 
fish-scales, as brooches and lace pins. 

Suiiday, April 4/A.— Walked to the Methodist Church, 
and heard a very good sermon and singing. There 
were bundles of tea-roses and lilies on the desk and or- 
gan. The church was quite large, and the communion 
service not unlike that of the Protestant Episcopal 
Church. As all were invited, I partook of the sacred 
memorials. It is a little strange that I should be all 
alone in a strange church. The Avalk tired me, for I 
have had rheumatism for the past two or three weeks, 
so that sometimes I could hardly turn. 

Monday, April Hh. — I walked a little way. 

Tuesday, April (ifh. — Walked to the curiosity store 
and returned very tired. Weather bright and cold. 

Thursday, Ap)ril 8th. — Walked the length of two 
blocks, to buy some curiosities for the children at home 



24 A WANDERER^S JOURNAL 

Tuesday. Aj)ril 13///.— Very, very warm. Left Jack- 
sonville on the 2 o'clock train arriying at Sayannali 
abont 8 o'clock in the starlio-]it eyeninc:, after a ride 
through a part of the country which had been flooded 
by the recent rains, and some of which was yet covered 
with muddy water. In some places we seemed to be 
riding through a river, so far stretched the water on 
either side, and the sensation was more comfortable 
when we were once more on dry ground. In many por- 
tions the colored people were clearing the land, making 
huge fires, which with their cabins, many of the doors 
open, showing also fires on their hearths, gave a weird 
aspect to the woods through which the cars passed. We 
had quite a long ride in the carriage to the hotel ; but 
the night was clear, and my sister's baby chatted in 
sweet fashion all the way. A room, overlooking a lane, 
was given me. The air Avas impure, and the water in 
the pitchers in the room had a muddy appearance, I 
suppose from the recent floods which may have ren- 
dered it inn)ossible to procure clear water. The trees 
were in full leaf, and many of the shrubs white with 
bloom. There is quite a pretty park in front of the ho- 
tel, with a monument to Gen. Green in the center. 
There are some dogwood trees trained as standards, the 
tops covered with the large handsome white flowers with 
green center. I can hear a mocking bird whistling con- 
stantly. 

Wednesdai/, Afjn'l 15///. — We took a drive to the Bon- 
aventure Cemj'tary. It is a beautiful place, but the 
gnats were so abundant that we could not enjoy, ai we 



SAVANNAH 25 

wished, the beauty of the place. Many of the resting- 
places were decorated with cut flowers and blooming- 
plants. Conspicuous among the latter was one called 
Jtt. the South the bridal wreath, l)ut which has a fra- 
grance like the EnglisJi hawthorn. Englisli ivy cov- 
ered some of the lots. The grey moss Avaving perpetu- 
ally from the tall old trees, seemed a constant emblem 
of mourning. We heard a red-bird whistliiig in the 
trees, but only once could we obtain a glimpse of the 
charming whistler. We admired the vegetable gardens, 
with peas in bloom, potatoes about six inches high, wiste- 
ria climbing over the balconies of the houses, and bright- 
ening them with its purple l>loom. We passed through 
a toll-gate, reminding us of Canada. Many of the 
houses in Savannah aj^pear like castles in the olden time 
of which we read. The roofs are srpiare and flat as in 
Jacksonville, Florida, with parapets. There are many 
parks, each ornamented with a monument. Forsyth 
park, we are told, is the principal park in the city, and 
is ornamented with beautiful trees, among them are the 
loveliest dog-wood trees I ever saw. There is a foun- 
tain in the center, azaleas m l)loom planted in the 
ground. Tea-roses climb on the balconies, and are 
blooming, though not quite in such abundance as in 
Florida. Some of the churches are quaint and old. 
The hotel iu which we stayed seemed very old. The 
shutters on the bedroom windows were broken. The 
dining-room had niches in the wall, as if for statuary, 
but filled with dry grasses. The old doors opening into 
the kitchen were brown, and a white patch of worn-off 



26 A wanderer's journal 

paint, gave to the room an appearance of broken-down 
grandeur. In fact the whole house was a remnant of 
old-time attempted splendor never entirely carried into 
execution. 

:N"otwithstanding the age of the hotel it Avas kept in 
nice order and the service w^as good, the table abund- 
antly supplied with food nicely cooked. Another hotel, 
where formerly planters stayed, was pointed out to us; 
grim and solitary it looked, stripped of its former state 
and grandeur. The deliciously salt air of Cliarleston 
was peculiarly agreeable to me ; and a longer stay in 
tliat interesting city, would have been very gratifying. 

Tliursdaii, AjJn'l IQth. — We took the two o'clock train 
for Charleston, where we arrive at about six o'clock 
P.M., and took rooms at the Charleston House, a hotel 
said to have been built fifty years ago. It has immense 
pillars in front, colonial style. The bed-rooms seem clean, 
but the furniture is old. There are brass knobs on the 
doors of our rooms. The house is built around a court, 
which has a grass, plot in the center, on which walked 
in solitary state, a rooster that seemed to crow for the 
benefit of the guests. 

Friday, Ajiril 17th, a.m.— AVe were quite tired ; and 
I felt almost exhausted after dinner. I had to lie down 
all of the morning. We, my sister, her husband, son 
and baby, took a drive around the city, noting the points 
of interest, the long old market, tlie various churches, 
almost all of them with the tombs around or near them, 
the battery with its sea-wall against which the river 



CHARLESTON 27 

waves dashed, the spray touching our faces as we drove 
along, so close is the road to the water. The old, old 
massive houses brought to memory the storied past and 
the mists of vanished years fell over me. AYe saw some 
lovely gardens witli roses in bloom. In one place the 
wisteria was festooned from tree to tree, a lovely sight; 
We went to a rice-mill, but they were not working; 
however, w^e were kindly given a small branch or spray 
of rice by a civil and agreeable old gentleman at the 
office. Among the ancient churches was 8t. Philips" with 
its odd old toml)stones ; near it were some made of brick. 
We drove to the Magnolia cemetery, a very beautiful 
place carefully kept. A spot where confederate soldiers 
are buried was surrounded by a privet hedge, a monu- 
ment in the center ; flowers in abundance, especially the 
favorite bridal wreath and lovely crimson roses, were 
ever present. My sister's little baby girl . wished to get 
out of the carriage, and her father lifted her and seated 
for a few moments on a ledge of the monument. In her 
Avhite dress she seemed like a dove of peace, a sign that 
war should be no more between the brothers of these 
free United States. There was a pond in one part of 
the cemetery spanned by a rustic bridge. We were 
allowed in one portion of the city to drive into the 
grounds of a private residence. A house for birds 
claimed our admiration. It was enclosed with wire and 
contained love-birds, parrots, macaws, white cockatoos, 
Java sparrows with a wire cage for the monkeys. There 
was also a space in the yard for English pheasants, a 
small grotto made of pieces of rocks and covered with 



28 A wanderer's journal 

periwinkle in bloom, and in the shadow in front of it a 
tin}^ pool where fish might play. In another part was 
a fountain in the basin of which alligators were sporting. 
AVeigelias and roses were in bloom. We thought the 
yard a gc^m, and we were loth to leave it, so many 
beauties did the small but pretty garden contain. 
King street was very interesting, with its narrow way, 
the shops almost within reaching distance from one 
side to the other, and reminding us of royalty and 
Canada ; King street being the principal street in 
Toronto and Hamilton, prominent cities of the Do- 
minion. 

Satunlaij, April 17 fh. — x.m. Walked down to the 
market. How curious appeared the tiles on the roof, as 
well as on that of many houses, giving them a quaint- 
ness to one who had never before seen them. The col- 
ored wonuMi with their bright head-dresses, and large 
gilt, hooped ear-rings, and their smiling faces, as they 
presented for sale green peas, cabbages, radishes, and 
bunches of herbs and roots, made pictures worthy of an 
artist's pencil and brush. ^Ye gave a piece of silver to a 
butcher for a morsel of meat to throw to the buzzards, 
that seem invisible until invited by food to appear. 
They are said to be the scavengers of the city, and are 
not allowed to be destroyed. The walk was very tire- 
some, though interesting. We were disappointed in our 
design to visit the magnoli.i gardens outside of the city. 
I forgot to mention that by the side of the railroad, 
between Savannah and Charleston, swamp azaleas were 
\)looming in masses, and the woods were filled with dog- 



WASHINGTON 29 

wood in the loveliest white bloom, that proved to be n 
feast of beauty to my eyes, never before enjoyed — I so 
love that white floAver. We bought some bunches of the 
pink azalea from small colored boys who were selling 
them at five cents a bunch, but the perfume was so dis- 
agreeable to me that I was compelled to put them on 
the outside of the window, though I pressed one as a 
specimen. 

P.M. — Started for Washington at about G o'clock, 
arriving at about 3 o clock p.m. on Sunday. The coun- 
try through which we passed Avas partly under good cul- 
tivation, especially through North Carolina and Virginia. 
There were large pieces of land planted with strawber- 
ries outside of Charleston, intended, I suppose, for the 
Northern market. We had quite a wearisome night on 
the cars. We were on a bullet car where lunches are 
served in a very neat and tasteful manner. We had 
dainty sandwiches, good tea, and bread and butter, and 
eggs if we wished, served in pretty dishes and cups with 
clean white napery. Very tired were we at the end of 
our journey. 

Monday, April 19///.— Clear and fine. AVashington 
in quite a commotion about the arrival of the Seventh 
regiment. We watched them from a small balcony at the 
hotel, which was decorated in honor of the occasion, as 
Avere many buildings, especially the Ebbitt. The crowd, 
to my eyes, numbered more than the regiment. 

Tuesday, April 20th. — AVent to the station, with Mr. 
Ma,cdonorgh, to pec ^,bont a ch^qrvo in my trunk, p.m., 



30 A avanderer's journal 

went across the street, to Mrs. Carpenter's rooms, at Mr. 
Fleischman's, to see the troops march down Pennsyl- 
vania avenue. They marched in good order. Their 
uniforms were handsome; all gray when coming into the 
city, and white, when marching on Tuesday. In the 
afternoon we moved to 1485 H st., where we took 
rooms. The house is very large, quite handsomely fur- 
nished, though apparently old. We learned that it was 
built by a wealthy Marylander many years ago. The 
doors, from my room into the hall are double, when open 
would admit two people arm in arm. The baseboard is 
high. A mirror in dark wood-work frame on the mantel, 
a few pictures, ornaments, books, some tiny tables, a 
folding-bed, a long kind of table, on which is placed my 
nephew's pretty red-bird, brought from Elorida, a sofa 
rocking chair, two arm chairs, complete the furnishing 
of my room. Later, my nephew's alligator and two 
small turtles, in a large tin-pan, w^ere added. I some- 
times stroked the alligator's ugly head, and found that 
he was thus lulled to sleep. When we were at Willard's, 
an officer of the 7th was presented by President Cleve- 
land, for his company, with a gold ornament, in the ghape 
of the figure 7 in diamonds. The cadets from Orchard 
Lake, Michigan, near Detroit, came to Washington to 
meet the 7th ; and they were really, in appearance, quite 
a credit to the state. 

Wednesdaij , April 21st. — There is quite a pretty gar- 
den at the back of the house, in which there is a tulip- 



WASHINGTON 31 

tree in bloom. It is a little lonely in this back-room ; 
but Cherry is whistling for company. 

Thursday, Ajjril 2'2(l. — I walked a short distance^ 
but found the pavement very hot from the heat of the 
sun. The trees are being fast robed in beautiful leaves ; 
and the shrub magnolia is in bloom. It is very pretty. 
The one near the house is shaded red and cup-shaped. 

There is a head of Washington, carved in wood, over 
one of the dark panelled doors of my room. How much 
the old doors remind me of houses in Toronto, Canada! 
Sometimes I could almost fancy myself in the back parlor 
of one house where years ago I visited. It needed but the 
tea-table, without cloth and highly polished, and the 
little company, the s Iver, the china, and few additional 
pieces of furniture to make complete the picture. 

April 2od. Friday. — In the afternoon celebrated 
Shakespere's birthday by a drive to Fort Myer and Ar- 
' lington Cemetery. The road was very good. AVe drove 
over the long bridge on the military road past the fort, 
with its comfortable houses, each with a grass plot be- 
fore the door; and through an archway over the gate en- 
tered the sacred grounds, which are surrounded by a 
wall, fast being covered by ivy. The headstones of 
marble are in regular rows, the grass between them being- 
kept close shaven, like a beautiful lawn. Conspicuous in 
the grounds is the sarcophagus where 2,111 unknown 
soldiers are buried, and a stand for speakers on Decora- 
tion Day. Ivy decorates every available space. The 
deep balcony in front of the Arlington House — formerly 



32 A wanderer's journal 

the liome of General Lee — is made of bricks. In fact^ 
it seems like a brick j)l^tform;, witli immense pillars, 
the circumference of which one of our party estimated 
at twenty-five feet. The house, in old style, on an emi- 
nence, giving a view of the Potomac, and Washington 
on the opposite side. How beautiful the place ! A 
sloping hillside of green, ornamented with forest trees. 
We admired exceedingly two cherry trees, one white 
and one red, covered with double blossoms like small 
roses. There were beds of lovely hyacinths in bloom in 
front of the house. I would have liked much to stay 
there longer; it was such a beautiful place in wdiich to 
wander or to meditate, among the brave and solemn 
dead. At intervals there were boards painted black, on 
which were inscriptions in white, appropriate to the 
place. General Lee would indeed, I should think, have 
been sad to leave so beautiful a home. It was wilder 
then, anc^ it must have been a grand and interesting 
place. Conservatories are attached to the grounds. 

Easter Sunday, April 25M. — I tried to get into the 
Church of the Epiphany, but the crowd was so great that 
I could not enter, so that I remained outside and 
admired the grey stone walls, covered with vines. It is 
situated on G street, between 13th and l-tth streets. 
By the way, in returning, I was almost lost, not l)eing 
familiar enough with the city to find my way, but meet- 
ing a young lady who boarded in the same house I was 
piloted to our house, and found that I had been quite 
near it all the time. 



WASHINGTON 33 

Evening. — I sat quite alone by tlie window, and 
penned these rhymes : 

On Sunday evening lonely. 
Church bells, companions only, 
Are sounding through the air 
A call, a call to prayer. 

A call, a call to praise ! 
- Let us clear anthems raise 
To heaven. God's word imparts ■ 
A balm to wounded hearts. 

Monday, April lUli. — a.m. Went on the street cars, 
running down 14th street on F street and Louisiana 
avenue — the latter ornamented by a statue of Abraham 
Lincoln — to the Capitol, where we went in the elevator 
to the basement, to see the model of Captain Eads' ship 
railway. 

Tioesday, April 27th. — My sister, her husband, son, 
baby, and nurse, and I, went to Mt. Vernon by boat. 
We passed the arsenal with its beautiful grounds of 
lawn and trees, tlie weeping willows bending to meet 
the waters of the Potomac near the stone wall, meant, I 
suppose, as a protection to tlie land. The old town of Al- 
exandria, with its places of historic interest, were pointed 
out to us, viz., the flag-staff marking the spot where 
Col. Ellsworth was killed, the spire or tower of the 
church in which Washington worshipped, the house in 
which he and Gen. Braddock held their conferences, 
all dimly seen in the distance ; Fort Washington, an 



84 A wanderer's journal 

old stone structure of which I would have liked the 
sketch ; then Mt Vernon. Part of our little com- 
pany, I may say all except myself, walked up the steep 
road to the tomb and house. The stage-coach in which 
I took a seat was a quaint old yehicle covered in black, 
with seats each side. The charge was ten cents each 
way. We stopped at the tomb, which is half way up 
the hill. It is built of brick, and in a front part of it, 
defended by an open-work iron grating, rest the remains 
of George and Martha Washington, each in a sarcopha- 
gus of white marble, plain, except that of Washington, 
which is ornamented Avith the United States coat of arms 
upon a flag. We then went to the house. I cannot do 
justice to the beauty of the spot in my poor descrip- 
tion. On an eminence above the Potomac, with the 
grounds so beautiful and well preserved, that they are 
full of charm and serene beauty inviting to contempla- 
tion and repose, stands the old mansion. The piazza in 
front of the house is paved with flag-stones said to be 
brought from the Isle of Weight. I could have rested 
many hours there, so beautiful and restful was the 
scene. That each State should have the keeping of a 
room is a pretty and wise thought. Fascinated by the 
quaintness and charmed by the neatness of each room, 
I occupied the meagre time allotted for the purpose of 
looking at the house. My attention was especially 
attracted to the elegant portrait of Washington on 
horseback before Yorktown, by Rembrandt Peale, the 
finest I ever saw. It is in the banquet-room, over two 
doors of which are also two that are very elegant. The 



MOUNT VERNON 35 

mantel of Carrara marble is guarded from ruthless hands 
by a wire screen. A model of the Bastile stands on a 
table, and the key is in the entrance hall, lianging on a 
nail. It is heavy, and I shivered at the thought of all 
the horrors that had been locked in by its force. The 
side-board in the dining-room or banquet-room, con- 
tained small mementos in the form of cushions made of 
Lady Washington's wedding-dress, and various trifles. 
In one room was the old piano. Upstairs, the old mirrors, 
the cabinets, the bureas, the candlesticks, the bedsteads 
with carved posts, the pretty washstands, all either 
original or duplicates, were so attractive to me that I 
would fain have lingered longer, still longer. I looked 
in at the old kitchen fire-places with their cranes, the old 
well with its bucket, all silently telling the tale of 
bygone comfort and grandeur. It would take more 
than one day for me to explore and enjoy the calm 
beauty of this delightful old domain, so charming, so 
revered. Much credit is due to the ladies of the Mount 
Vernon Association for the perfect order in this place 
so cherished. 

But the time for departure drew near. The old coach 
waited. The colored driver whistled his warning call, 
and ^ve dared not linger. We bade adieu, and buying 
some curiosities from the grey-headed colored man 
near the wharf where the boat waited, we went on 
board, on the return trip, arriving at the city, and by 
the street cars to our boarding-place in good time, very 
tired, but glad that we had seen this lovely spot. 



36 A wanderer's journal 

^ Saturday, May 1st, 1886. — I went in a street car to the 
Center Market, aiul walked tlirongli that extensive phice 
of merchandise. We bought some lilacs. Wrote to 
May Roberts, and sent her some flowers, some blossoms 
of the shi-nb magnolia. 

Sunday, May 2d. — I went with Miss Langdon, a lady 
boarding here, to the Unitarian Church and heard a 
fair sermon, and very good singing and reading. -The 
church is quite a pretty one, the walls outside [being 
covered with ivy. It stands on tlie corner of Four- 
teenth and L streets. 

Monday, May od. — Packing, a. 31. In the afternoon 
we took a delightful drive to Saul's greenhouses and 
gardens. We found a charming old gentleman, Mr. 
Saul; and a beautiful spot, with its gentle declivities, a 
rippling stream, called Piny Branch, lovely trees, large 
and small and, old and young native trees. We saw a mag- 
nolia, whose bending branches sheltered many a plant ; 
a dogwood tree in bloom, and not the least an exten- 
sive collection of orchids of which those in bloom were 
elegant and rare in color and form. There wei'e pretty 
bright-leaved begonias, elegant varieties of caladi- 
ums and azaleas, eighty acres of land, and a ju-etty 
dwelling. Receiving some flowers, and a final hand- 
shake from the owner, we took our leave and drove to 
the soldiers' home. Again we are charmed with beauti- 
ful grounds, in which lilacs were in bloom, and one of 
the most elegant horse-chestnut trees that I ever saw. 
There were ravines and groups of forest trees, lawns, 



BROOKLYN 37 

and grounds under cultivation, smooth roads, and build- 
ings in perfect order, as seen from the cari'iage. One 
thicket was white witli the blossom of the dogwood, 
which grew in lavish })rofusion. There was a statue of 
Geii. Scott in one part of the grounds, and a cottage in- 
tended for the President's use ; but Mr. Cleveland does 
not occupy it. The vista of the Capitol is wonderfully 
beautiful, seen through the archway of the trees. 

Wedmsday, May oth. — Started for New York via 
Philadelphia. We had a very pleasant day on the cars, 
with very little dust, and the country clothed in lovely 
garb of green leaves, grass, and bloom of fruit trees 
and dogwood. We passed farms in a fine state of 
cultivation, and beautiful residences. Some stone 
houses attracted my admiration. 

Thursday, May 6th. — At the Pierrepont House, 
Brooklyn, N. Y. Not liking our rooms, we moyed on 

IHday, to the Hotel St. George on Brooklyn 
Heights, where we took a suite of rooms, consisting 
of parlor, and three bedrooms, a private hall and bath 
room. My sister's nurse had a sleeping room on an- 
other floor. Families live here in Winter. From my 
room window, I have a view of the yards, tops of houses, 
church spires, far away, both in New York and Brook- 
lyn, and a glimpse of the river. Yet I think that I 
would not be content to live in the heart of a city, un- 
less surrounded by beautiful grounds. 



38 . A wanderer's journal 

Sunday, May Wi. — All clay rain, which enlivens 
the grass in the yards. 

Sunday, May lOth. — A delightful Spring day mod- 
erately warm and. bright. I went to Beecher's Church 
with Miss Hattie Story, and saw about twenty children 
baptized, 'i'lie singing was beautiful especially the 
first hymn — one of Bonar's — 

*' Past the waking and the sleeping, 
Pas! the smiling and the weeping 

I shall be soon; 
Love, rest and home ! 
Loi'd, tarry not but come." 

Wednesday , May \Wi. — Took some little walks, and 
made some calls in the house during those days. There 
are two large dining-rooms in the hotel, capable, it is 
said, of seating four hundred guests. The fare is good, 
and the waiters, who are all white, are respectful and 
attentive. 

Sunday, May 17tJL — I went again Avith Miss Hattie 
Story to hear Mr. Beecher and was introduced to him. 
He is much more gentle than the first time I heard him 
preacli, twentj'-seven years ago. His discourse was upon 
the existing evils, anarchy, socialism, communism, 
the treatment of the Indians, Chinese and Africans. 
He expressed his belief that the United States were 
quite capable of dealing with these and all other evils 
and people who might come to them, He advocated 



BROOKLYN 39 

allowing all people, of all lands, to come to this country, 
and educating them. 

Monday, May Yltli. — P.:Nr. I went with my brother- 
in-law and his son, over the bridge and returned. 

Tuesday, May 18tJi. — I walked to Fulton street, where 
I took the street car to Montague street, then got into 
an omnibus which took us to Miss Hattie Story's board- 
mg-place, to say good-bye to her and her father, who 
sailed for Europe to-day. After lunch Mr. Macdonough 
and his son went to the steamer. They report the sleep- 
ing accommodations as being so cramped that one 
shudders at the mention of crossing the ocean. 

Wednesday, May 19th. — Mr. and Mrs. Crosby, Mr. and 
Mrs. AYarwick and Mrs. Dunkley spent the evening 
with us and partook of ice cream and strawberries. Mr. 
Warwick recited for us. 

Friday, If ay 2lst. — My sister, Mrs. Macdonough, her 
husband and two children, and I drove to Greenwood 
Cemetery, which is a lovely place at tins season of the 
year, when the grass is green, and the dogwood and 
many other trees and shrubs are in full bloom, the lots 
also being adorned with many plants and flowers. ISTa- 
ture seems to have fitted it for the purpose, and art has 
contributed to the decoration of this favored spot, by 
erecting monuments of various styles to the memory of 
beloved ones gone before. There is one of a sea-captain 
designed, it is said, by himself while living. It is a life- 
size statue of himself in sea-costume, glass in hand, I 



4:0 A wanderer's journal 

think it is in grey stone. Those that were the most 
l)leiising to me, were blocks of rough stone on which 
crosses were cut. We also drove to Prospect Park, an- 
other beautiful spot kept with great care. The roads 
were perfection, broad and smooth, with trees on each 
side. Under the trees, in some places, were lovely wild 
flowers, as well as cultivated flowers, and shrubs of vari- 
ous kinds. There is an extensive green where games 
were being played, a lake and boats for rowing, arbors, 
and a grand stand where people can sit and enjoy see- 
ing the passers, on horseback or in carriages, and rest 
their eyes by looking at the trees and flowers. 

Saturday, May 26fh. — Lunched with Mrs. Warwick 
on Madison street, and though tired, had quite an 
agreeable visit. There were Mrs. Macdonough, her 
baby, Mrs. Crosby and I, Mr. Macdonough and his son 
Thompson, Mr. Warwick having gone by invitation 
for a short trip in Mr. Duryea's yacht. We had a most 
delicious lunch, and were entertained by Mrs. Warwick 
and her two married daughters in a very genial manner. 
The house is situated on a very pleasant street, shaded 
by fine old trees, and with grass plots in front of each 
house. There is so much wisteria climbing over fences 
and trellises and fronts of the houses, that one is con- 
stantly charcaed by the beauty of its long festoons of 
pur})le bloom. 

We passed Washington and Clinton avenues, ad- 
mired some roomy old houses surrounded with grounds, 
and caught glimpses of others in the distance equally 



BROOKLYN 41 

attractive. There are so many high houses that it is a 
rest to look at one of two or even three stories. The 
open cars are much more pleasant in Summer. 

Sunday, May 23th. — Walked alone to Beecher's 
Church, and, to mj surprise, being alone, was given a 
very comfortable seat. The hymns were very politely 
found for me, and handed to me each time, and I 
heartily wished that those pew holders might receive 
the same attention in strange churches. 

Tuesday, May 2bth. — A little cloudy, but in the af- 
ternoon clearing, with a high wind. I walked to Ful- 
ton street, and bought some magazines and toy books, 
and a card for my little niece, Mary May Macdonough. 
My sister, her husband and son went to Kew York, 
shopping. 

Wednesday, May 26th. — This being children's day, 
I walked to Fulton street, to see them parade. 
There is a custom here of devoting one day in the year 
to the pleasure of childi-en in different Sunday schools, 
who meet and march with music and banners, then as- 
sembling at the different churches, listen to addresses, 
have singing, and are treated to icecream, coffee, cake 
and fruit. A small portion of the little company 
passed the hotel, to the delight of my sister's baby- 
girl. 

Thursday, May 2Wi. — I took a very short walk, 
and paid Mrs. Crosby a visit in her pretty roomx. 



42 A wanderer's journal 

June 1st. Tuesday. — Started for Detroit, riding over 
to New York in a carriage, then taking tlie 6 o'clock 
train, p.m. Arrived at our destination at 3 in the 
afternoon of Wednesday, June 2d, taking rooms at the 
Brunswick, wliere we remained until the following 
Wednesday, June 9th, when we went on board the 
steamer Mackinac for Cheboygan, reaching that place 
at about 6 o'clock p.m. on Thursday, June lOtli. 

Wednesday, August 2bth. — Having spent a rather 
tedious summer in the confusion of house rejoairingand 
being compelled to go away, that some repairs might 
be finished in my room, my nephew, Thompson Mac- 
donough, and I went to Mackinac — he sent over his 
liorse and buggy. Mr. Macdonough accompanied us 
on the tug 3Iary. We had quite a" pleasant sail. 
The weather was warm, and the view, as we approached 
the island, was very tine. The setting sun, like a ball 
of red, cast a line of reflection in the water. 

August 2Qth. TImrsday. — We took rooms at the 
Mission House situated in the southeastern part of the 
island, overlooking the waters of the lake, and a part of 
Bois Blank and Round Islands. I spent some of the 
forenoon on the beach below the house, and we went 
again in the afternoon to pick up stones and pebbles. 

Friday, August 27th. — a.m. Took a drive around 
the island stopping at Arch Rock, the British landing, 
and the annex in the western part, where beautiful cot- 
tages have been built forming quite desirable summer 
residences, p.m. — We went again to the beach, near 



MACKINAC 43 

the rock called Robertson's Folly — the story is contained 
in the,Annals of Mackinac. I was saddened during the 
afternoon by hearing of the sudden death of a beloved 
uncle, John Culham, at whose house I spent many 
happy days. 

Sundaij, August 29th. —Fog and light rain except for 
a short time, which I improved by going down on the 
beach in the morning, and for a drive in the afternoon. 
Not being acquainted in the hotel, the time is rather 
solitary except when driving. 

Monday, August 30th.— We took a long drive by way 
of the British landing towards Scott's Cave. We saw 
Ruggles' Pillar, a rock standing near the road with trees 
growing out of it. We could not, on account of the 
roads, reach the cave, but my nephew scaled the steep 
hillside and brought trophies of moss and ferns which I 
afterward pressed for a memento book. We bought 
some views in the village, came home to the hotel to din- 
ner, and in the afternoon went down on the beach to 
pick up stones. Many pieces of agates have been 
washed ashore. A cold rain set in about 6 o'clock in 
the evening, but cleared by 

Augtcst 31st. Tuesday. — We drove to Arch Rock, 
and I took a rough sketch of it. We climbed the 
elevation to the left to see the view, Thompson went 
down to the beach below, to see the Maiden Arch. We 
then drove past Sugar Loaf Rock, standing like a senti- 
nel, with ferns and small shrubs growing on its sides 
and a queer opening called a cave. There was, for^ 



44 A wan]>erer's journal 

merly, a fir tree on the top but it was cut clown, in a 
measure spoiling the curiosity, I think. Tlie ryck in 
shape is not unlike the old-fashioned sugar loaf. We 
climbed the high steps at Fort Holmes and, from the 
height, enjoyed a view of the fort and island and 
distant water and land. We then drove around by the 
Annex, came down past the fort, and through the town 
to the hotel. p.m. — Took a drive, with Thompson, to 
Arch Kock, on which Thorn ])son stood, while a photo- 
graph was being taken — 1« Sugar Loaf, where Thomp- 
son climbed, while I held the horse and sketched. 
When my nephew was tired of climbing, he gathered 
hazel nuts and birch bark. The day was very cold and 
so clear that Round Island and the opjiosite shores 
loomed up with startling nearness. 

Wednesday, September 1st. — My brother-in-law com- 
ing for us, we returned to Duncan in Hie City of 
Alpena, arriving in time for dinner. The weather was 
so intensely cold, the last night on the island, that I 
contracted a severe cough. 

September Uli. Saturday. — The weather has been 
alternately cold and warm. To-day it is warm and 
raining. This is the anniversary of our dear mother's 
death, and her tomb is so far away, in Canada, that I 
cannot decorate it ; all I can do is to send flowers to the 
church at Cheboygan, where the talented and liberal 
Mr. Curtis has charge. 

Saturday, September lOtli. — Cool. The day before 
took a ride on the cable cars to South Park, where in a 



CHICAGO ^^ 

phaeton we drove around the heautiful enclosure and 
through the building where the park horses are kept. 
The gTOunds, with their miniature hike, beds of flowers, 
and foliage plants in varied designs, were charming. 
One bed was designed to represent Jumbo, the famous 
elephant. Another was arranged in figures to represent 
the hours, the sun rays falling on each figure at the due 
time, all planted with foliage plants or flowers. On 
Saturday we went to Lincoln Park, which, having a 
frontage on Lake Michigan is quite as attractive, 
and varied in beauty. There were two seals in their 
pond of water. Their bark, .to me, resembled that of 
a dog. Swans were beautifying the lakes. Wild ani- 
mals, the white polar bear, the brown bear, the griz- 
zly bear, the wolf, foxes, in separate enclosures supplied 
by water in trickling streams over rocks and stones, and 
cages of large birds enlivened one portion of the 
grounds. 

Tlmrsday, September lUli, 1886.— Started for Chicago 
from Cheboygan, on the train, by way of the Michigan 
Central, stopping at Grayling for dinner and at Bay 
City for supper. After waiting about an hour, took 
the sleeper at that place, and passing through Saginaw, 
Lansing, and Jackson, arrived at Chicago on the morn- 
ing of the 19th. 

Monday, Septemher 20^^/^.— Went with Mrs. Bowers 
to Marshall Field's dry goods establishment. 

Wed7iesday, Septemher 22^/.— Mrs. Bowers and I went 
to Gossage's to select samples. We were detained until 



46 



evening, when, after a tedious waiting for an omnibus, 
we at last reached the cars. It seemed quite like an 
adventure of travel, when we had to sit down on a 
stone or some lumber by the side pavement, so very 
tired were we. 

Tliursday, 8eidte'iiiber 23d. — Spent the day with 
Mrs. Magoffin on Lincoln avenue. We enjoyed chat- 
ting of her younger days. I was shown some curios- 
ities in the way of brooches ornamented with hair of 
different families. It was interesting to notice the 
variety. A hair chain connected by gold links was 
quite pretty. Valuable keepsakes also were medals, 
presented to Miss Magoffin at London, Canada, at Hel- 
muth College. 

Friday, September 24/7^.— Mrs. Bowers and I went 
on a street car to Graceland cemetery, which seemed to 
me one of the beautiful spots of earth. On one or two 
monuments were cut in the stone the heads and por- 
traits of those resting beneath. ^ 

Sunday, Septemher lUli. — Miss Shackleton and I 
went to hear Professor Swing. The discourse was very 
learned, as are. all of his sermons, but his tone of voice 
was not as pleasing as that of many whom I have heard. 

Monday, September I'^tli. — Mrs. Bowers, Mr. Macdon- 
ough and I went to the Exposition, Mr. Bowers joining 
us in the evening. I enjoyed looking at the paintings, 
the dry goods, the silverware, the minerals, birds, furs, 
furniture. Among the precious stones, was one ame- 



CHICAGO 



4r 



thyst, dark and especially beautiful. We took supper 
at the restaurant in the building. 

Tuesday, September 2'^th.— Took a long drive, in com- 
pany with Mrs. Bowers, Miss Shackleton and Mr. Mac- 
donough, through the principal streets of Chicago and 
some of the suburbs, admiring the elegant residences. 

TJiursdmj, September 30/^/^.— Mrs. Bowers and I went 
shopping, riding in the omnibus to Gossage's and 
Marshall Field's, two of the largest dry goods houses. 

Saturday, October 2f/.— Mrs. Bowers, Miss Shackleton 
and I took a trip on the steam cars to a place in the 
suburbs of Chicago, called Fernwood, where there was 
an auction sale of lots. On the way home we looked 
into, the Palmer House and saw from the outside, 
through the large windows, the famous barber-shop of 
Chicago, a palace where shaving and hair cutting are 
done in the midst of luxury and splendor. The room, 
about a hundred feet long, looked very gay and brilliant 
by gaslight. 

Sunday, October 3^.— Very tired, but in the evening 
being rested, Mrs. Bowers and I went to the Congregar 
tional Church and heard fine singing. The sermon was 
of medium worth, though I gathered some ideas from 
the collection of words. The illustration of a child 
wandering away, being lost, and, after an abandonment 
for a short time, suddenly climbing the hillside and at 
the top finding his father's house, though not quite truly 
carried out, was yet a picture of life. We wander, we 



48 A WANDERER^ S JOURNAL 

sorrow, we find joy, we are lost in life's labyrinths, and 
when we climb the hill and reach the height, there will, 
we hope, open to our sight a home of eternal joy. The 
organ was fine and the singing beautiful. 

From Mondaij, October Wi, the week until Satur- 
day was occupied in finishing the shopping, except one 
day when we went to the wholesale millinery estab- 
lishment of D. B. Fish & Co. to see the shaping and 
sewing of bonnet-shapes up in one of the higher stories. 

Friday, December 24//i. — I went with my nephew to 
see the market display. There were large quantities of 
holly for sale. I bought a bunch for fifteen cents, and 
some mistletoe on the wood. Quantities of flowers 
were displayed for sale, rosebuds for fifty cents. My 
nephew, Thompson Macdonoiigh, decorated my room 
with holly, and in a corner he arranged Mary May's 
Christmas toys, and hung her stocking ; so that I had 
the full benefit of Santa Claus' presents through the 
night, and the joy of seeing the child^s delight and pleas- 
ure in the morning. 

Saturday, December 2Uh. — Christmas day. Walked 
a little way, and called to see Madame Fleischman at 
whose house we boarded last Winter when in Wash- 
ington. The rest of the day passed quietly. There is 
to me, always a sadness and loneliness, at this time of 
the year, now sinse father and mother have gone to 
heaven. My sister gave me several rosebuds, which 
were very cheering and acceptable. 



WASHINGTON 49 

Sunday, Decemher 2Qt7i.—l went to the Congrega- 
tional Church on the corner of G and Tenth streets, and 
heard a good sermon and Christmas music ; the s^me 
minister, organist, and choir as last Winter. The 
church was crowded and warm, and having walked 
quite a distance to the cars, and from the cars to the 
church, I felt a little faint, and rather frightened on ac- 
count of being all alone, among strangers; but by fan- 
ning myself with my handkerchief (I had not thought 
of a fan) I kept a little air in motion until the service 
was ended. For a long time after that experience I took 
a coupe to go to church instead of walking or going by 
car. 

On Wednesday evening, 29t7i, Mr. and Mrs. Mac- 
donough, Thompson and I went to see the cyclo- 
rama of the battle of Manassas. The scenery and bat- 
tle scenes were marvelous in execution, the horses and 
men standing out from the canvas like living pictures, 
while one could fancy that the fire and smoke from the 
muskets were real. The faces of the wounded and 
dead, and their positions seemed realities, and told a 
tale of suffering, that gave rise to the feeling, would 
that war might cease from the earth ! There were the 
smiling fields so soon to be watered with blood, the 
beautiful trees so soon to be broken and blasted by shot 
and shell, the fiery, spirited horses so soon to be shot 
down, or to be left riderless, while their gallant masters 
are to be left dying or dead on the field where war is 
reaping human life, and gathering in a full harvest. 



50 A wanderer's journal 

And Ave are glad that it is over, and hope that such 
a dread reapei- may not soon come again to our hind. 

On Monday, October 11th, wliicli is the anniversary of 
father's birth, Miss Shackleton and I started for 
CheboA'gan, Michigan, by way of the Michigan Central 
railway, tiking the sleeper at ten o'clock p.m., and arriv- 
ing at Bay City at 1'^: 55 M. on Tuesday. While wait- 
ing for the homeward-bound train we partook of a 
bountiful lunch of cold chicken and grapes, provided 
by Mrs. Bowers, to which we added a cup of tea from 
the lunch counter, and were somewhat refreshed. We 
arrived at Cheboygan on Tuesday evening, October 12th, 
very tired. 

November I'Sth. — Cold and clear. There was a heavy 
fall of snow, a week ago, but it has all melted. 

November 2oth. Thursday, — Thanksgiving. Very 
mild weather and very quiet day. Thompson Macdon- 
ougli away at the camps. No company, my sister and 
baby, Mr. Macdonough, and myself, being alone. 

December lUli. — Started from Duncan City, Michigan, 
on Tuesday, on the Michigan Central, arriving at De- 
troit at nine o^clock p.m., the same day. Snowing all 
day. Stopped at the Brunswick, the party consisting of 
Mr. and Mrs. Macdonough, their son Thompson, their 
little daughter Mary, and nurse, and I. 

December 17th. — AVeather moderately cold with fair 
sleighing. Yesterday I took a long walk — for me. All 
are tired. 



EN VOYAGE * 51 

December 20^/^.— Started from Detroit, where there is 
good sleigliing, for Washington, via Wabash railway, 
taking the sleeper at Auburn, Indiana, where we had to 
wait at a veiy plain station, for three hours. The night 
was very dark, and not a light did the village se&nn to 
have. We passed through a very mountainous part of 
the country, past tl e Shenandoah valley ; Deer Park, 
where President Cleveland passed his honeymoon, and 
Harper's Ferry, memorable as tiie scene of John Brown's 
cai)ture, where the Shenandoah joins the Potomac 
River. The reverse curves made by the cars in passing 
around the mountains caused many to be quite ill. I 
was among the unfortunate number. One person com- 
pared the motion to that of a ship at sea. What purple 
peaks in the distance ! What rocky steeps ! Wliat 
deep valleys ! What poor cabins ! Many of tliem de- 
serted, yet these hills and valleys, we are told, are cele- 
brated for their fertility. We noticed quite a lumbei'ing 
])lace, as we looked down from our heights, on the flats 
below us on tlie banks of a wide flowing stream. There 
is a quaintness jibout these solitary places, charming to 
the tourist, but a little inconvenient for habitation. I 
think, unless extreme wealth could bring comforts from 
civilized marts and, planting them among these wilds, 
create a paradise amid these solitudes ; though truly 
^' Home, sweet home" is where the household treasures 
are ; and I suppose that in many of these cabins, poor 
though they seem, happiness is as often found as in 
palaces. From other places people come for health, evi- 
dently ; a magnificent hotel just under the brow 



62 



of a hill loomed before us, cool and inviting — an 
apparent oasis in the wilderness — in a spot known, 
of conrse, to many of the traveling world, but not to 
us — Deer Park. I think that President Clevehmd 
showed his ap[)reciation of beautiful places, wlion lie 
chose this spot, delightful as it appeared from the car 
windows, for enjoying the society of liis beautiful bride, 
away from the whirr and noise, in the refreshing, 
invigorating air of the mountains. When shown the 
poor little fort where John Brown was taken, it seemed 
to nie too small to be held for a moment. One can hardly 
understand how he could hope to avoid capture. The 
houses in the portion of the town on the Virginia side, 
before crossing the bridge, looked like nests perched on 
the sides of a bluif, overlooking the rivers. Instead of 
a fortress, there was a small church at the top of a rocky 
height. Let us think it an emblem of enduring ijeace 
between the sister States, North and South. As the 
two rivers here join and flow in one stream, over- 
looked by a temple to God, so may the heavens look 
down on these United States of America, made up as 
they are of many different views, opinions, beliefs, all 
at last side by side, in one grand whole, resolved to 
keep together, though differing in minor points — of- 
varied societies, denominations and families, yet pre- 
senting a nation bound together by love of a free coun- 
try blessed by righteousness and abundance. When 
foreigners come to these shores, they should help to 
keep the laws, instead of breaking them. May the 
integrity of our citizens always keep watch that wealth 



WASHINGTON 53 

may not be gained by fraud. May honesty of purpose 
rihe watclfword; and the watch-tower of ruth and 
honor be ever kept lighted tbroughou ^^\\^^"^''^'f 
other lands may also see the beauty and bght and be n 
unity with sentiments that so nobly slnne and protect 

We arrived in Washington at seven o'clock p.m., an 
very tired, and drove to Willard's Hotel. 

Sunday, Jan. 2d, 1887.-Went alone t«the Metho- 
dist church and heard a commentary on the book of 
Ecclesiastes. The minister cited the book as the sohl- 
oqny of a sel6sh man who had enjoyed all the luxuries of 
life yet was never content, having found his pleasures 
all unsatisfactory at the last as compared to the unse - 
fish life of Christ, who spent his life in doing good to all 
men ; thus drawing the conclusion that talents used for 
the benefit of others, was the true way to happiness. 

Monday,. Jan. 3^.-Packed and moved *» 1336 I 
street, where we have large rooms, but are obliged 
go next door for meals. 

SaturdayrJan. lo^A.-Have been in this locality 
nearly two weeks, during which we have had some cold 
weather, a little snow and rain, then freezing. Yet 
this morning early we have Spring temperature, the 
grass in the park across the street being quite green. 
On Sunday, the 9th, I rode to church and heard^ a tair 
sermon. The text was "Thy kingdom come. me 
preacher dwelt on the fact of Christ's kingdom being 
lowly rather than of high worldly degree. 



54 A wanderer's journal 

Sunday, Jan. 16/f^.— Bright Spring day, mild but 
cloudy. 

Saturday, Feb. btli. — K cold wave succeeding a very 
warm spell. Very little change in the monotony of 
daily living. 

Sunday, Feb. Idth. — Bright, clear and cold. I went 
with Mrs. Ferguson, our landlady, to hear Dr. Newman, 
who was General Grant's pastor. He preached a ser- 
mon about the Chinese, four of the Chinese Legation 
being present. He represented them as superior in 
many resjjects to other nations, and especially honest. 
He mentioned firms who had dealt for years with Chi- 
nese houses of business without losing a dollar, and 
stated the figures. He gave statistics showing that in 
California they were in the minority in all houses of ill 
repute, correction, or hospitals. He justified them in 
their resentment of European interference, and cited 
their last act of toleration for all forms of worship, and 
their protecting missionaries, as a proof of their being 
brought into the pale of Christianity, as prophesied by 
Isaiah. 

Feb. lUli. Monday. — St. Valentine's day, a.m. 
Cold and clear. p.m. — Cloudy. Mr. ^lacdonough 
went with me to the Aztec fair, where there was a great 
crush, the colored school being there also, so that it was 
difficult to see much. Their straw-work, one of the 
pictures being of the Capitol, was very curious and 
showed much skill. The silver-work was also very beau- 
tiful. There were displayed the costumes in bull-fights, 



WASHINGTON 55 

old manuscripts, instruments of torture, remnants of 
the Inquisition, pieces of onyx polished, and workman- 
ship in stone, and many other curiosities. There were 
women pounding and kneading the brciid of the coun- 
try, Mexico. 

Marcli Sth. — Fine, clear and warm, succeeding several 
days of rain and gloom, the grass in many places being 
quite green. A few days ago I saw some shrubs in 
yellow bloom, and the English ivy on the walls is quite 
glossy. We have had a very dull time here this winter. 
I have gone to church when I could. I attended a 
course of lectures by Stoddard. They were made 
attractive by views of different places and scenes relat- 
ing to histories of people whose lives and places of resi- 
dence were thus brought vividly to mind. 

March 9t7i. — Cloudy, ending in rain. News arrived 
of the death of Henry \yard Beecher on Tuesday, March 
8th, 9:30 a.m. 

Sunday, March 13th. — Having engaged a coupe, Mr. 
Macdonough kindly accompanied me to President Cleve- 
land's church, neither Mrs. Cleveland nor the President, 
however, being present. It seemed a very old church. 
There was a small gallery for the organ and choir. The 
walls are painted in a kind of grey paneling. The 
seats, however, are very comfortable. The music and 
singing were very good, the organ having a melodious 
tone, and the congregational singing very gratifying. 
My grandmother's favorite hymn, *' All hail the power 
of Jesus'_name '' was sung, and I much enjoyed hearing it. 



56 A wanderer's journal 

Monday, March 14. — Mr. and Mrs. Macdonough 
and I went to call on Mrs. Boyle and Mrs. Carpenter, 
two acquaintances from the North, the former from St. 
Paul, Minnesota, the latter from Rome, New York. 

Tuesday, Marcli loth. — I went to buy and send some 
books to brother Bird's two little girls, Frankie and 
Violet. 

Wednesday, March 16ih. — Mrs. Macdonough and I 
went shopping on Pennsylvania avenue. 

Tliursdayy March Vlth. — Clear and cold, with high 
wind. Spent a quiet morning in writing, p.m. — Took 
a Fourteenth street car to New York avenue, where in a 
book-store I bought a few Easter cards. Tried a little 
walk, but found that I was not equal to much walking. 

My hirthday. — The day, in some respects has been 
rather sad, varied, like life, by a few rays of sunshine. 
Pleasant words are the sun-rays ; a smile and a kindly 
wish, a daily recognition of the love that should exist 
between the members of a family by acts of kindness, 
keep bright the household. I think more of these than 
of costly gifts. I received a kind letter and a little 
birthday book from home, from my brother Bird and 
his wife. We had strawberries and cream for dinner. 

Saturday, March IQth. — Mr. Macdonough kindly 
accompanied me to the market, where I bought some 
flowers, among them a small bunch of trailing arbutus, 
the first of the season. 



WASHINGTON St 

Su7ulaij, March 20^/i.— Attended the Garfield Memo- 
rial church on Vermont avenue, near the corner of In 
street. It is a very pretty church with arches on the 
inside. Garfield's pew was pointed out to me. It is 
situated in the extreme corner of the church to the left 
of the minister as he faces the congregation. The ser- 
vice was simple, and sweet, consisting of the organ 
music with congregational singing. The day was like 
Spring ; and as I came home, for I was alone, I noticed 
yellow crocuses in bloom in the ciicle around the statue 
of General Thomas. 

Wednesday, March 23f/.— To the jeweler's on Pennsy^ 
vania avenue to look at silver for a wedding present. ^ 

Thursday, March 24^A.— Fine clear day. Again Mr. 
and Mrs. Macdonough and I went to make a final choice 
of a present for Miss Hattie Story, who is to be married 
this month. Mr. Macdonough then kindly accompa- 
nied me to call on a lady, whom we met at a lecture, in 
a brick house on New Jersey avenue, opposite the depot 
of the Baltimore and Ohio railway. The lady. Miss 
Stayers, had been a school-teacher in Utah and had 
crossed the Eocky Mountains twice. She spoke of the 
engineering skill in some parts of the road where the 
irons had to be driven into the rocks on each side of a 
deep gorge, and the track built on that foundation 
between two dangers, the towering rocks above and the 
deep gulf beneath. She spoke of the women of Utah 
as being infatuated with polygamy, on account of the 
glorious future promised them in the companionships of 



68 A WANDERERS JOURNAL 

husbands who were supposed to become gods in the 
next world. She added that they were kept down by 
fear. 

Friday, March 2bth.—l went to De Sales street to call 
on Mrs. King, a lady who had been kind to our mother 
in years gone by. The street is very quiet. The house 
to which I went, that of Mrs. King's daughter, has 
vacant ground near it, so grass grown that it forms a 
lawn without the trouble of keeping. 

Saturday, March 26th.— I went to market alone, 
bought some flowers, trailing arbutus and hepaticas, 
and a bunch of laurel branches. I was quite interested 
in the colored people with their herbs and roots of vari- 
ous kinds, and wild flowers for sale. They had small 
charcoal stoves and hovered over them to keep warm, 
while some of them eat their frugal meals. I came 
home on a street car, very tired, and arranged the flow- 
ers around father's aad mother's pictures, giving some 
of them to my sister's little girl, whose cunning ways 
amused me. As she came into my room and looked at 
my floral an-angements, she said, ' ' You're having a 
grand time, aren't you ?" Then when she spilled some 
buttons with Avhich she was playing, in reply to 
my question ''How did you spill them, Mary May?" 
she said, •' It happened." She is brimming with cun- 
ning sayings. 

Sunday, March 21t]i.—l went with Mrs. Ferguson to 
the Wesleyan Chapel, on the corner of Fifth and F 



WASHINGTON 60 

streets. The church is built in square style. The seats 
are arranged one above another ; the walls are painted 
in dull color of panel painting. Behind the reading- 
desk there was the effect of light shining from a win- 
dow, when it was only the painting on the wall. The 
sermon seemed intended to prove that David was chosen 
to bring into use a form of worship, wherein every man 
might stand before the altar, instead of that in which 
no one but the priest might enter the Holy of Holies, 
where dwelt the presence of the Most High. Also that 
David inaugurated preaching and worshiping God by^ 
singing and music. The speaker also dwelt on the act 
of coming to church simply as a form and coming to 
bring the soul into communion with the worship of 
God. 

Tuesday, March 29/A.— Cold high wind. In the 
evening I walked to the Universalist church, escorted 
by Mr. Macdonough, to an entertainment in which 
scenes were represented by living statuary. There were 
Maud Muller, Rock of Ages, the Spanish Sisters, the 
Nun, My Eye and Betty Martin, Woman's Faith, the 
Talking Well. The cherubs were represented by an 
imitation of clouds from which shone first, three little 
white faces, then when encored, three black ones with 
white teeth showing, and eyes dancing with mirth. A 
lady sang '' Annie Laurie '' with a fine and tender grace. 
The sunflower chorus was presented by a number of 
young and pretty girls, each of whose faces formed the 
center of a paper representation of a sunflower, and 



60 A wanderer's journal 

between all^ on the broad sheet of paper, ran the sup- 
posed stalk and leaves. This band of human sunflower 
sph'its, set in this framework, sang in chorus. I think 
that a good deal was given for the price, twenty-five 
cents. On the homeward walk, though 1 did not know 
the name until afterward, I had -the good fortune to see 
the star Aldebaran near the moon, wdiich shone in a 
crescent above a bank of clouds. The star will not be 
seen again for nearly a year after next month. 

Wednesday, March Wtli. — A^ery tired after going on 
Pennsylvania avenue. Mr. Macdonough has gone to 
New York to attend the marriage of Miss Hattie Story, 
his niece, to Mr. Macfarlane, of Toronto, Canada. 

Friday, April 1st. — Snow all day covering the trees 
with a beautiful robe of white, and creating a fairy pic- 
ture in the park opposite our boarding-place. 

Sunday, April 3d. — Went with Miss Wood to St. 
John's church in the afternoon. The Psalms were 
sung instead of being read. The boy choristers had, I 
thought, unusually fine voices. There were three large 
palm branches at the back of the altar. After the ser- 
vices the palms were distributed piece by piece. Miss 
Wood asked for a piece, and we divided it. I took 
mine home, pressed it, and made it into small crosses to 
give as mementos, keeping one for myself. 

Monday, Ajoril ifh. — I went with my sister and her 
husband to see a display of flowers at Small's on the 



WASHINGTON ^1 

corner of Fourteenth and F streets. It was truly a 
bower of beauty. The roses were of many colors, and 
some of them of mammoth proportions. There were 
elegant varieties of cineraria, snowballs, lilacs, of green- 
house forcing of course, hydrangeas, stocks,— I can m . 
imagination inhale their perfume as I write ; and gen- 
esta, with its bright yellow flowers gracefully droopmg, 
reminding me of the mustard plant blossom so beauti- 
fully described in Helen Jackson's story of Eamona, 
where the Indian girl walks through a thicket ot them 
to meet the Franciscan father and receive his blessing. 
We also went to Woodward & Lothrop's dry goods 
store. My sister and her husband then left me. I 
thought I could take a car, but alas ! they were all full. 
I walked and walked, going into shops to rest at mter- 
Tals and making some purchases, till at last I obtamecl 
a seat through the politeness of a gentleman; it must 
be hard for gentlemen coming home from business, 
tired, to give up their seats and stand. I reached our 
lodgings very weary. 

Tuesday, April 5^/..-Bright and cool. Visited the 
Corcoran Art Gallery, in company with a young lady. 
We enjoyed the pictures very much. One of Bierstadt s. 
Mount Corcoran, was a view at which it was restful to . 
look. The water, overshadowed by the trees on the 
shore, and mirroring both them and the rocks, moun- 
tains and clouds on one side, while on the other was a 
pretty beach and shore covered with scarlet flowers, and 
a bear walking leisurely down to the water. The child 



62 



in a boat, Avitli her grandfatlier helping to row, called 
the " Helping Hand," her face hent down with earnest 
gaze, and the old man's amused look of admiration at 
the little garden was quite a stady. We were quite 
interested in the painting on porcelain in a cabinet, and 
two beautiful pictures in mosaics. They were about 
four inches long and two wide. There were heads 
carved from ivory, of eminent men, ancient and modern 
medals, and agates, an ancient mirror, portraits and 
statuarv- One face whose SAveetne^s was a delight, that 
of a lady in an arm-chair, with cap and shawl, reminded 
me of mother. The model of the Warwick vase, made 
from the timbers of the '' ConstUution " frigate, is not 
very pretty, but I suppose that the beauty consists in its 
being made from the timbers of the vessel. 

Wednesday, April Gfh. — Walked through the park, 
tAvo blocks between Fifteenth street and Vermont ave- 
nue, called Macpherson square, from a statue of the 
general of that name in the center. He is represented 
on horseback, field-glass in his hand. The pedestal of 
the statue is ornamented by forms of cannon-balls, and 
bears his name and the date of his death at xltlanta. 

Thursday J April U/i. — I went with Mrs. Macdonough 
to shop a. little and buy Easter cards. We were caught 
in a light shower and had to walk home on account of 
the cars being full. 

Good Friday, Ap^ril Sih. — Went with Miss Wood, a 
lady in the house, in a street car to Mt. Pleasant, 



WASHINGTON 68 

When we arrived at the top of the hill, we found that 
there was no church service, but we were allowed to go 
in and see the very pretty grey stone church. Back of 
the altar were the best paintings of the Disciples and 
Apostles I ever saw. We then took a three-cent car 
down, then the five-cent car as far as St. Andrew's 
church, where we enjoyed a very pleasant service and 
discourse. 

Saturday, April 9th.—^Yent with Miss Eichmond and 
Mrs. Dr. Mahaffy to the Center market to see the dis- 
play of Easter flowers. The trailing arbutus was in full 
bloom, and also the hepatica, the bloodroot, and a 
pretty flower called '' Quaker lady/' and another purple 
tiny blossom, the name of which I did not know. I 
brought them home and arranged some of them in front 
of father's and mother's pictures. 

AjJril 10th. Easter 8undaij.—T\ie churches, we are 
told, are gaily decorated with flowers and rich in music 
and song. Having been called to visit a sick woman, I 
had not the pleasure of seeing all of this beauty. 

April nth. Mondai/.—Mi\ and Mrs. Macdonough, 
baby, nurse and I went to see the egg-rolling in the 
White House grounds. This is, we learn, a custom prac- 
tised every Monday after Easter. All children are privi- 
leged on this day to roam over the grounds ; and in the 
forenoon the President received and shook hands with 
many of them in the East Eoom. Some were eating 
lunch; all had colored eggs. There were about two 
thousand people, including both adults and little peo- 



64 A wanderer's journal 

pie. The Iwacintlis, of which there were many beds, 
were in bloom, and many of the shrubs. 

Tuesday, April IWi. — Spent from 2 o'clock to 4 in 
company with Miss Stayers, in the Corcoran Art Gallery. 
Among the bronzes was the reproduction of the monu- 
ment to Frederick the Second, the Great of Prussia, and 
the column of the Place Vendome in Paris. The orig- 
inal of the latter, stated in the description to have been 
built by Napoleon the First in honor of his German cam- 
paign of 1805, and modeled after Trajan's column in 
Kome, was made of 1200 pieces of cannon taken in that 
campaign, Russian and Austrian. There were so many 
curiosities in various forms of statues, shields, suits of 
armor, that it was impossible for me to remember all, or 
even a few, accurately. The cnrved figures were all 
exquisite. The head of the veiled nun was a marvel of 
sculpture. The teai- on the face of the crying boy 
seemed almost real. There were also statues in niches 
on the outside of the building. Miss Stayers and I 
walked through Lafayette Park, looked at the statue of 
General Jackson on horseback, rested and I called and 
said good-bye to a lady, Mrs. Carpenter, who wa6 going 
away, and returned to our boarding place. 

Wednesday, A2ynl IWi. — Cool : a.m. lovely and 
bright. Went to the Industrial School on G street, 
P.M. walked a little way on Twenty-first street, to the 
herdic coach, to Xew York avenue where I took the car 
to I street, walking half a block. 



WASHINGTON 65 

Thursdmj, Ajjril litJi. — Tulip magnolia in full 
bloom, without green leaves. Pink magnolia opening. 
Scarlet Pyrus Japonica, and pink and white flowering 
fruit trees in bloom, in sheltered places, leaf -buds be- 
ginning to unfold. P.M., we took a long drive in the 
suburbs of Washington, saw President Cleveland's cot- 
tage, on a high piece of ground. The country is very 
hilly, and one is a little timid in riding up and down 
the steep hills. 

Friday, April 16tJi. — Twenty-two years ago yester- 
day on Good Friday, Lincoln was assassinated. 

Saturday, April IQtJi. — Went in the Fourteenth 
street 3ar to New York avenue where took a Pennsylva- 
nia avenue car to Seventh street, a Seventh street car to a 
market on I, E and Fifth streets, but found no flowers. 
It was a very large building. On I, E, and Seventh 
streets the parks are very pretty ; I saw in one a 
white honeysuckle in bloom. Taking a Seventh street 
car, I went to the Central market where I found 
for sale, trailing arbutus in abundance, shad-tree 
blossoms and a small purple flower which the colored 
people call wild lilac — a curious tiny blossom not unlike 
the snapdragon in shape, the green leaves being round, 
and in pairs, from which the flower-stem rises ; they 
say it creeps on the ground. The tiny flower called 
Quaker Lady, not more than one-quarter of an inch in 
size, was yet for sale. I also bought some narcissus, its 
beautiful yellow cups tempting me with their spring 
hue. 



66 A wanderer's journal 

Sunday, April 17th — I went to Doctor Sunderland's 
church on Four-and-a-half-street. Bested for a while, 
in the Sunday-school room ; was much pleased with the 
manner of grouping the classes around the teachers like 
families. After Sunday-school Miss Stayers, a lady who 
met me there, induced me to go to the Trinity Episco- 
pal Church, on account of the music. It seemed to be 
an old church. The interior was built with arches 
within arches. I was annoyed a good deal by having 
lost my purse with car-tickets and collection. Fortu- 
nately, however. Miss Stayers lent me some money for 
car fare. On the car I saw an old colored woman who 
looked as though she might have been at some former 
time a slave. She wore an old alpaca dress, with bows 
down the front, a mantle, and a bonnet tied down with 
an old green veil, evidently garments given by some 
one. She surveyed with disgust two young men of col- 
or, dudes, who came in dressed in the height of fashion, 
with silk hats, canes, and fancy cravats. It was grat- 
ifying to see a young man, meanwhile, pay the aged 
woman the same attention of handing her ticket as if 
she were of high position. In contrast, came in with her 
father a sweet little girl, all in white, from her pale 
face to her bonnet and dress. A white lady in years, 
with quaint curls and black satin dress sat near, chat- 
ting with a bright southern girl. The day ended in a 
gentle rain, helping the leaf buds to enfold, and refresh- 
ing the grass. 

Monday, April ISth. — Cool, all day rain, swelling the 
leaf-buds. 



WASHINGTON 67 

Wednesday, April 20t7i.—v.M. Went to a kind of 
bazar, called a French market, held at St. Rose's Indus- 
trial School on Gr street, meeting Miss Stayers there. 
There was quite a pretty show of flowers, candies, trink- 
ets, and vegetables arranged in fancy baskets and other 
devices. Over each booth was a parasol decorated with 
vines. In one corner was a wheelbarrow full of plants 
in pots. Great bowls of lemonade were ready for the 
thirsty who wished to buy. Strawberry plants in pots, 
asparagus tied with ribbon, strawberries in tiny saucers, 
small dolls, and other trifles. The fire-places were orna- 
mented with palms and daisies. A tempting lunch was 
served in the kitchen, which was spotless in neatness, as 
also the rest of the house. We were shown the rooms 
for white sewing, and those for dress-making. Both 
were pictures of tidiness and industry. In the former 
the girls sat around one long table. In the latter, each 
had a small table neatly covered with oil-cloth. The 
prices in the market were rather high for our dimin- 
ished purses. We took a little walk after leaving the 
school, noticing the shrubs in bloom, and some old- 
fashioned houses, and returned by car to our boarding- 
places. 

Thursday, April 2lst. — Mrs. Macdonough and her 
little daughter, Mary May, and I went to G street. 
What quaint old fashions one sees on the cars ! I saw a 
an old lady with two long curls hanging in front of her 
face and bonnet. 

Sunday, Ajjril 24:th.— Went to Dr. Sunderland's 



68 A wanderer's journal 

church. Sitting awhile in the Sunday-school, I listened 
to a few remarks about the life of Jacob. The lesson 
taken was to avoid the deceit and trickery that he prac- 
ticed in taking advantage of his brother's hunger, thus 
obtaining his brother's birthright by fraud — his put- 
ting on the goat-skin to deceive his father, that he 
might thus obtain the blessing due to Esau, the first- 
born. At the end of his life he declared, ''Few and 
full of evil have the days of the years of my life been." 
Joseph was cited as an example of goodness, honesty 
and integrity. The text of the sermon in church was 
Hebrews, 4th cliapter, 15 th verse. The speaker dwelt 
upon Christ's humanity in that he was made nearer to 
us by his birth, lowly and of no repute, his life of temp- 
tation, sorrow and toil, and his death of suffering. 
Some fine quotations Avere given, and a legend of a 
building all of precious stones and gold, destroyed by 
the deluge. But angels were employed in gathering 
here a pearl, there a diamond, and in the end the tem- 
ple would be rebuilt as beautiful as of old. P- M. — Spent 
about an hour in the park w4th my little niece, Mary 
May, part of the time sitting, and part of the time walk- 
ing. There is a beautiful apple-tree in bloom. 

Tuesday, A})ril 26t7i. — Heavy shower in the evening. 
I went in the afternoon to the Agricultural grounds, 
which were beautiful with the bloom of tulips, hya- 
cinths, magnolias, yellow Forsythia in perfect hedges, 
flowering apples, double and single, and Judas trees ; 
and musical with the songs of birds. I enjoyed much 



CENTRAL NEW YORK 69 

the beauty of the grounds, but was very much fatigued 
by the walk, and glad to be able to find my way alone. 

Thursday, April 28i^A.~Fine a.m., when I spent a 
short time in the park and picked from the ground a 
few flowers of the Judas tree. 

Friday, April 29/A.— Cool and showery, frustrating 
our intended trip to Mt. Vernon, in company with Mrs. 
Bunker, Mrs. Dunbar, and Mrs. Washington ; but before 
going away from Washington we visited the beautiful 
spot with part of the company, and thoroughly enjoyed 

the day. 

We went to Brooklyn the first week in May, and our 
stay in that city was rendered uncomfortable by the 
severe attack of rheumatism which kept me in the house 
for more than two weeks. We left for home in June, 
arriving there about the 12th. The summer was passed 
rather monotonously. 

Having to go to Detroit in October for shopping and 
dentistry, and wishing on October 22, the return trip, to 
amuse myself and vary the sameness of the day's ride, 
I noted the places by the way. The first station from 
Detroit was Woodward avenue, then Norris, Warren. 
The face of the country very level until you pass the 
last mentioned place ; then it is a little rolling. We 
notice good farms with pretty belts of woodland, and 
good roads. Next, Utica seems to be quite thickly set- 
tled. A church and upwards of a hundred houses are 
seen about half a mile from the station. A lovely 
stream winds its way, I fancy, through the town and 



70 A wanderer's journal 

seems to follow us in various branches as we journey, 
reminding us of our childhood's rambles and of Tenny- 
son's 

'^ Men may come, and men may go. 
But I go on forever." 

Then the country becomes a little more hilly. As we 
come to Rochester, we notice a bridge of boards fastened 
by stones across a brook, which is anotlier reminder of 
early days. A rudely built row-boat speaks of some 
boy's treasure, enclosed as it is, by a kind of fence. 
Now we stop at G oodson's, a small stopping 2:)lace near 
a bridge, and the country is yet more rolling. Now we 
stop at Lake Orion, a lovely summer visiting-place on 
the lake of the same name, and surrounded by a beauti- 
ful farming country. We passed a lakelet about two 
miles long, and a mile wide, encircled with evergreens, 
and autumn-tinted trees. Next Oxford, a large, appar- 
ently thriving place. Behold ! a few miles farther, 
another gem of a lake in its field and woodland setting. 
Then Thomas, near which is noticeable a long row of 
Lombardy poplars. The foliage is now more faded. 
Along the road we notice many cornfields, brightened 
by the yellow shining pumpkins yet ungathered. One 
field charmed me with its many knolls. Metamora is a 
very large place, shining in the morning sun. The 
pumpkins are beginning to be gathered in heaps for 
the feast of Thanksgiving. the farms ! May they 
always deck the country with beauty ! Tlien Hunter's 
creek — but where is the creek ? The country here is 
beautiful, apparently long settled, though some fields 



WESTWARD ^^ 



are full of stumps. One field of wheat, on a hillside, 
was to me a picture of beauty. Lapeer. Now the trees 
begin to be stripped of their leaves. Now we stop at a 
place called Carpenter's, much like a lumbering coun- 
try with its old mill, and buildings like a camp. Not 
far from the spot is a pond of blue water. Now we see 
stump fences, and lail fences, and hardwood lands, and 
corn-stacks, and the loveliest green fields, and behold a 
saw-mill in the distance, and a town, the houses of 
which are plainer. Another stream, after which the 
country, thougli rich in cornfields and orchards is 
rouo-her. Otter lake begins a wilder section. Another 
blue lakelet. Now more cultivated. Millington, near 
which are some charcoal ovens, and quite a settlement 
of unpainted houses. We pass two stations. Then 
charcoal ovens, which appear not unlike huge bee- 
hives in shape. Reese, where there is stave manufactur- 
ing-Hunger's Bay City-West Bay City. The mo- 
notony is varied by dinner at the eating-house. Be- 
tween Bay City and Linwood it is a little wild. A new 
station ; then houses shingled down the side, as well 
as on the roof. Pinconning is quite a large place, with 
stores, a hotel, nice wide streets, and comfortable 
houses, and sidewalks, with mills near, and a wide 
stream. Deep river, near a stream ; not many houses. 
At Sterling there are several stores, a hotel, and quite 
a scattered settlement. Alger consists of a hotel, a 
house or two besides the station, and saloons. There are 
signs of snow. Then a level plain of young pines, lar- 
ger ones as we advance, succeeded by shrub oak and 



^2 A wanderer's journal 

some poplar. Stevens, where there is a large mill. 
Then woods of all kinds, hardwood, tamarack, and 
hemlock. Remains of lumber camps with a belt of 
Norway pines in the distance. At Roscommon we see 
icicles and snow. At Grayling one can be refreshed by 
a cup of tea. Frederic, there the snow is deeper. It 
is now too dark to read the names of the stations. Ar- 
riving at Cheboygan, we drove home to Duncan City. 

November 22d. — Started from Duncan City, Cheboy- 
gan Co., Michigan, on the Michigan Central, arriving at 
Detroit on the same evening after a very enjoyable day 
on the cars. Beside our own party of Mr. and Mrs. 
Macdonough, Thompson, their son, and their little 
daughter, three-year-old Mary May and I, were our 
nieces Miss Mary May and Miss Catherine Ellen Smith. 
The latter played for us on her banjo. The young peo- 
ple were quite enlivening. 

November 24:th. Thanksgiving, Thursday. — A rainy 
disagreeable day, varied by an unusually good hotel din- 
ner. Rain for two days. On our way to Albany we 
stopped at Buffalo, where we did not enjoy our fare. 
After a short visit to Albany, we started on December 
5th for Jersey City via the West Shore railroad. We 
enjoyed the scenery along the road, for we had quite a 
pretty view of tlie Cats kills, but we did not enjoy the 
air or the hotel accommodation at Jersey City, being too 
near to the station. 

December 6th. — We took tickets for the Pennsylvania 
Central, and had a very pleasant and safe journey. At 



WASHINGTON fB 

Philadelphia the daintiest lunch of hot oysters, crack- 
ers and pickles, put up in paper boxes, was brought in 
for sale, with tongue and ham sandwiches, some of 
which we bought and very much enjoyed them. We 
arrived at Washington at 4 o'clock p.m , and drove to 
Mrs. Fergusson's, finding all ready to receive us, and a 
beautiful begonia blooming in my window. 

Christmas, December 26th. — We decorated our rooms 
with holly, with a piece of mistletoe under which we 
kissed little Mary May. The day was very peaceful. I 
caught a severe cold in coming here and have not yet 
recovered from it. 

Monday, January 2d, 1888. — To-day was celebrated 
as the 1st. A bright clear day, not very cold. I walked 
this morning to H street, where I took a car to Lafay- 
ette Park, through which I walked to Pennsylvania ave- 
nue, opposite the President's house, there took the car 
to Fifteenth street and New York avenue, where I 
exchanged to the Fourteenth street car, in which I rode 
to K street, then walked from the corner to my boarding- 
place, about half a block. There is quite a number of 
magnolia trees in Lafayette Park ; their glossy leaves 
shine brightly in the sun. There are also several holly 
trees, but there were no berries on them. The President 
holds his reception to-day. 

January 11th. — Went to hear the boy pianist, with 
Mr. Macdonough, Josef Hoffman. His skill is wonder- 



T4 A wanderer's journal 

ful for one so young, about eight or ten years old, I 
understand. 

January iWi. — We have one of those drizzling rains 
of sleet, rendering slippery the roads, and clothing the 
trees in icy beauty. 

Jan. 26th. Thursday. — On one night of this week, 
I saw and heard Emmet, the favorite actor, who sings 
and dances with so much lightness and grace. To see 
his handsome dog on the stage, repays one for going, I 
think. I have heard one opera, " The Child of the 
Eegiment.'^ I think I hardly realized my expectations 
never having before heard it. I have been once to the 
senate, and once to a concert at the barracks. These 
concerts are given every Monday, and are free to all, the 
marine band playing some fine pieces. The mess room 
with its hard benches as seats is the concert-room. 

Sunday, January ^Oth. — With Miss Wood, I attended 
the Metropolitan church on Four-and-a-half street. 
Heard Dr. Newman preach upon the different transla- 
tions of the Bible, a very learned discourse. The state- 
ment that the bones of Wickliffe were taken up and 
burned, and the ashes thrown into the river, whence 
they were conveyed to the sea, was a forcible and poetic 
illustration of the scattering of the Gospel to all lands, 
said the speaker. High above the pulpit, is a cross of 
wood from Mount Olivet, handsomely carved. A lovely 
bouquet of half-blown buds in a vase, on one side of the 
altar, refreshed the eyes. Mrs. Logan, the widow of the 
general, was pointed out to me. She is a lady of deli- 



WASHINGTON 



To 



cate features and snowy hair. Senators Stanford and 
Sawyer were in their respective pews. 

llmrsday, Feb. 2d. — I took a coupe, and with Miss 
Graham, a young lady living in Washington, called on 
Mrs. Senator Stockbridge at three o'clock p.m. After 
speaking to Mrs. Stockbridge, and being introduced to 
the ladies receiving with her, we were asked into the 
dining-room, where a table was spread with dainties, 
and in the ^center a china basket of roses. I sipped a 
little lemonade, and Miss Graham took some coffee. 
We then bade adieu to our hostess and withdrew, hav- 
ing occupied but a few moments. The ladies receiving 
were all in full dress. We then drove to see a friend of 
Miss Graham. Not finding her at home, we drove to 
1326 I street, took my niece Mary May, drove to Penn- 
sylvania avenue, where I left Miss Graham, and re- 
turned, having had a happy little drive with my little 
niece, the day being very fine and balmy. 

Sunday, Feb. Uh. — Miss AVood invited me to go again 
to the Metropolitan church, where I heard a good ser- 
mon, prayer being the subject of the discourse, p.m. 
Miss Wood and I attended a temperance meeting at the 
Congregational church on G and Tenth streets. Tem- 
perance songs were sung by the Silver Lake Quartette 
Club, of New York. A feature of one song was, that at 
the end of each verse the whole assembly was invited to 
join in singing a verse of some old favorite hymn. The 
effect to me was particularly pleasing. The addresses 
were good, though in some instances the language was 



76 A wanderer's journal 

not quite studied to suit a fastidious taste, yet it was all 
intended to favor the cause of freeing the country from 
the liquor traffic with its enormous abuses. 

Monday, Feb. Qfh. — Our party, consisting of Mrs. 
Macdonough, my sister, her husband and little daugh- 
ter, went, in company with Miss Graham and her cousin, 
Mrs. Marsh, to hear the Marine band at the barracks. 
As the concerts are given in the forenoon, we had to 
occupy almost the whole day and take a lunch by the 
way at a candy store. 

Feb. \-^th Shrove Tuesday. — Miss Wood and I went 
to the botanical gardens, where we admired the ferns, 
but found not many plants in bloom. The day was 
warm, snow melting, streets muddy. 

Feb. loth. Ash Wednesday . — Cold and clear. I quite 
enjoyed the day in a solitary way, going to St. John's 
church in the morning. 

Feb. 16th. Thursday. — Miss Stayers and I went to 
the National Museum, and looked at the magnificent 
memorials presented to Gen. Grant, and which I am 
incapable of describing. 

Friday, Feb. 11th. — Saw at the Botanical gardens a 
banana blossom. It was four to five inches long and 
purplish pink in color. 

Sunday, Feb. 19th. — Heard a fair sermon at the Pres- 
byterian church, Four-and-one-half street. Neither the 
President nor his wife was there. The discourse was a 



WASHINGTON 77 

comparison of the spiritual sower and reaper to the 
busy farmer constantly attending to his duties, the one 
sowing and reaping the heavenly grain, in Christian 
work, the other unceasing, except in sickness, in his 
attention to his temporal advancement. May I not 
ever enter a sanctuary where is admitted a hope that, 
out of the chaos of sin may be created, one day, a king- 
dom wherein only righteousness may reign, wherein all sin 
may be washed away from our world, and never a groan 
as from those eternally condemned may be heard, because 
no place of torment can exist. 

Wednesday^ Feb. 22d. — Washington's birthday. Mr. 
and Mrs. Macdonough and their little daughter, and I 
took a drive, calling on Mrs. Boyle on 1510 P street. 
Found her very pleasantly situated in a lovely house. 
She is from St. Paul, Minnesota, and living in Washing- 
ton for her health. The day was beautiful, and we very 
much enjoyed the drive. 

Thursday, Feb. 23d. Miss Stayers and I spent the 
day, at the National Museum. We could not half see 
all the beauties of the collection ; yet it was a rich treat, 
full of interest and information. We did not enjoy the 
lunch that we took there. There were different kinds of 
fish, with all the apparatus for catching them, from, the 
tiniest hook to the harpoon, and gun nets and baskets ; 
fabrics, machinery, medicines, chemical apparatus, spec- 
imens of marbles, and mineral curiosities of nations ; 
memorials of Washington, Grant, and many heroes of 



78 A wanderer's journal 

history. We came away, I feeling that I had had only 
a taste of valuable instruction. 

Saturday, Feb. 2btli. — I took a car to Pemnsylvania 
avenue to call on Mrs. Carpenter at the National Ho- 
tel. 

Sunday, Feb. 2QtJi. — Hoping to find the Reformed 
Episcopal church, I took a Fourteenth street car to 
Fifteenth street, where I got in a herdic in which I rode 
up Sixteenth street. As I could not find the church 
for which I was looking, I went into St. Luke's church 
on Fifteenth street, where I heard , quite a talented ser- 
mon, on the right cultivation of conscience. The col- 
ored preacher very generously assumed that many 
slaveholders knew not that slavery was wrong, until 
shown the evil of it, when some of them took the bonds- 
men to free States. That as many years ago, drunken- 
ness was not considered as stamped with the disgrace 
that now accompanies it, so conscience might yet be ed- 
ucated to look upon war as also dishonorable. 

Tuesday, Feb. 2Sth. — Miss Perry and I went to the 
Botanical gardens, thence to see Professor Neuman's 
exhibit of silk culture, which was exceedingly interest- 
ing. There were the butterflies, the eggs, the cocoons 
on branches of the mulberry and silk in various stages 
of manufacture. The cocoons on the wild coffee-tree 
were quite a novelty to us. They were of a greyish col- 
or, and the silk produced from them was a kind of light 
brown. We were also shown the mode of unwinding 
the silk from the cocoons. Putting them in hot water^ 



WASHINGTON 79 

the professor first teazed them with a bunch of twigs. 
Then taking a few threads, he fastened the end to the 
machine, and turning it, wound them into a skein of 
lovely fine thread. He gave to each of us a box of co- 
coons. There was also present a lady from Virginia 
who, I think, was intending to employ herself in the 
cultivation of the silk-worm . 

Wednesday, Feb. 29fh. — Was out twice, once in the 
forenoon and once in the afternoon. 

Tliursdaij, March 1st. — Took a herdic cab to the 
Smithsonian, where I met Miss Stayers, We saw a fine 
collection of birds of all kinds, parrots, owls, eagles, 
pelicans, swans — black and white, pheasants, humming- 
birds, orioles, woodpeckers, ostriches. We walked over 
to the National Museum, a short distance. I then took 
a herdic for home. Miss Stayers going home to First 
street, N. W. 

Saturday, March M, — Went to the Palais Royal, a 
large store, to inquire for my umbrella which I had left 
there, p. m. — Miss Perry, a lady from New York, and 
I attended a lecture on chemical analysis by Professor 
Clark at the National Museum. It was very interest- 
ing, though I could not understand all. These free 
lectures are some of the privileges of Washington. 

Sunday, March Uh. — Attended the First Congrega- 
tional church on G and Tenth streets, heard a very 
good sermon, and as a free invitation was given to the 
communion, I partook of it as offered, and was much 



80 A wanderer's journal 

benefited by the simple service. The speaker quoted 
that portion of the New Testament wherein Christ is 
mentioned as enduring his sufferings for the sake of the 
^' joy set before him." *' Thus we endure our trials the 
more patiently on account of the hope beyond this life," 
was the burden of the sermon. 

Tuesday , March 6th. — Went to G street and from 
there to a book store, partly by car, partly by her die. 

Wednesday, March 7th. — Called on Miss Graham and 
meeting Mrs. Graham in the herdic, I went to St. 
John's church Avith her. 

Thursday, March 8th. — In the evening enjoyed a 
Shakesperian pageant given by some society ladies in 
aid of the JN"ational Homeopathic Hospital. Shakespere 
was represented as presenting scenes from his plays 
before the court of Queen Elizabeth who sat on her 
throne with courtiers in attendance. The dresses and 
jewels, the latter evidently owned by the ladies who took 
part in the scene, were elegant and the pantomime of 
superior merit. 

Friday, March 9th. — In the evening, in company with 
Miss Perry, attended a lecture at the National Museum, 
'^ The Microscope in Geology." We very much enjoyed 
it. The views of the rocks were very fine, especially 
when the polarized light was thrown upon them, bring- 
ing out all of the beautiful colors. Driving home, we 
admired the Washington Monument, shining white 



WASHINGTON 8l 

through the darkness, and the sky brilliantly lighted 
with stars. 

Saturday, March 10th. — I went to market in the fore- 
noon and bought some flowers, but could not get any 
wild ones, as the weather has been too cold for them to 
bloom. P.M. — Accompanied Miss Wood to the Grand 
Army Fair. The inajority of the booths were covered, 
but we went to the Art Eooms where were displayed 
many paintings, specimens of needlework, and many 
curiosities. 

Monday, Mai'ch 12th, and Tuesday, March 13th. — A 
terribly high wind, blowing down trees and branches of 
trees, cutting off communication by telephone in the city 
and the fire alarms, and during several days cutting off 
all news from the world outside of Washington. The 
storm, in full terror of destruction, has swept the whole 
country, mercilessly destroying property and many lives, 
as afterward reported. It was said that people died 
from exposure to cold, and the fierceness of the ele- 
ments. Boston was isolated, the only way of hearing 
from that city having been by cable to a place on the 
coast of Maine, thence to England and return. 

Thursday, March Ibth. — Some communication estab- 
lished. 

Friday, March 16th. — Air oppressively warm. 

Saturday, Mirch 11th. — My birthday, a.m. — Went 
shopping. P.M. — Took "a herdic cab, and drove with 
Miss Wood to the National Museum, where, after look- 



82 



ing at a family of buffalo stuffed and mounted, from a 
young one about a year in age, to one in maturity. 
There were six of them, beautifully mounted on a piece 
of ground, in which were their tracks, and here and 
there some sage-brush, and matted grass, and a pool of 
water. ^'^ This,'' said a lady whom we met, and who 
was familiar with that country, ^^is a piece of Montana." 
We also noticed a case of stuffed ourang outang, most 
hideous in their resemblance to humanity, climbing 
trees, one of them savagely biting his companion's 
hand. A case of prairie-dogs claimed our attention, 
with a small owl on the edge of their burrowing-place, 
and with which they are said to live in harmony. A 
case of opossums, one curled up very naturally in the 
nest. Armadillos, kangaroos, in variety from fawn color 
to grey, in their curious half standing, half leaping posi- 
tions. A family of seals, from the cunning baby curled 
up on a rock like a puppy, to the large ones, parents of 
the whole, I supposed. A small elephant, tigers and 
bears. The polar bear was a very large specimen of 
yellowish white color. AYe went to the lecture-room to 
hear a professor speak about the origin of names. The 
lecturer traced some of the various names to the fact of 
designating a man, thus AYilliam, son of John, from 
being constantly repeated became changed to William, 
John's son, then to William Johnson. Others were 
named from the places where they lived, or the countries 
from which they came. About the fourteenth century 
the surnames thus attached became hereditary. If a 
man lived near a wood, from being called James at the 



WASHINGTON 83 

wood, the name was gradually changed by omission of 
words or letters to James Atwood. Again, names were 
derived from the occupation in which men were 
engaged, or from some feat of strength or valor, as, 
when a Scotchman helped his fallen king into the sad- 
dle, the king being clad in a full suit of armor, he was 
named Armsti'ong. Names also were taken from ani- 
mals, birds and flowers, and even the sky lent aid to the 
naming of our race. In conclusion, the speaker gave a 
selection from some wise writer, noting that the high 
were descended from the low and the low from the hidi. 

Sunday, March IStJi. — Miss Stayers and I went to 
the Presbyterian church in Four-and-a-half street. Dr. 
Sunderland preached from a text in Job vii : 17, 18, 
dwelling upon the many trials, the lesser being of near- 
ly as much annoyance as the greater, and we need to 
be prepared and strengthened for all. 

Thursday, March 22d. — Cooler. Cloudy with a few 
flakes of snow. Mr. and Mrs. Macdonough, Mary May 
and I were on Pennsylvania avenue and F street in the 
morning ; and though we took the cars, there was much 
unavoidable walking, and I was compelled to rest all of 
the afternoon. In the evening a lady, Miss Wood, asked 
me to go to a Woman's Temperance meeting at the 
Foundry Methodist church. On the platform were Miss 
Francis Willard, Mrs. La Fetra, Mrs. Hannah Whitall 
Smith, Miss Jennie Smith, and Mrs. Cleghorn Hoffman 
from Missouri, who gave a long address, favoring and 
urging prohibition, as the only dyke against the inroads 



$4 



of the ocean of drink which was breaking up homes, as 
the sea destroyed all the houses in the Netherlands be- 
fore a sea-wall was built against the encroaching waves. 
" As/^ said the lecturer, ^^ objections on all sides" — she 
stated eacli kind of opposition — ^^vere made to that pro- 
tection, so, now, opposition to prohibition was met. 
As the dykes were finally built and carefully watched, 
so, would eventually their cause succeed. She compared 
high license to the indulgences of the Roman Catholic 
Church. For as the church could not keep her people 
from sinning, she sent Tetzel with these indulgences 
through Germany, and with the money received for 
them, built cathedrals. So the government made the 
people pay for liquor, in the shape of license. She 
claimed that Maine gave 47,000 for prohibition majority, 
and that their cause was progressing." She ended the 
lecture, with a quotation from Whitaker. Many of her 
quotations were also from the Bible. Miss Catherine 
Willard, who had just returned from Germany, where 
she lu.d been educated, sang twice. One lady read 
from the Bible, and prayed. There was also singing of 
hymns. Mrs. Cleghorn also stigmatized the Christian 
nations as the senders of rum to the heathen, and con 
demned the liquor monopoly. There were addresses by 
others. Miss Kate Willard was, I thought, quite pret- 
ty. In going to my rooms I found the evening bitterly 
cold. 

Friday, March 23f/. — Intensely cold] and bright, with 
high winds. Reports of terrible storms in Minnesota, 



WASHINGTON ^^ 



Wisconsin, Iowa, Michigan, come to us. Railroads 
blockaded. Went with Miss Perry to the Fish Com- 
mission, was much interested in seeing the hatching pro- 
cess. Great glass jars were full of spawn, a tube con- 
veying fresh water into the jars. Through another tube 
the tiny morsels of fish swarm into a tank. So quickly 
did they ascend the tube, that a flash, as of light, was 
only seen, and they passed to the larger tank. There 
were some curious many-finned fish of gold and silver 
color, brook trout from Michigan, California rainbow 
trout, Michigan grayling, and many other kinds. 
Thompson Macdonough having joined us we went to 
see the animals behind the Smithsonian. There were 
foxes, an opossum, a cinnamon bear, a jaguar, an ele- 
gant animal with velvety skin, spotted brown and yel- 
low, prairie dogs, prairie chickens, quail and several 
other kinds of birds, a gray squirrel and a few more an- 
imals. It was so cold that the yellow crocuses that 
brightened all the parks drooped their heads. 

Saturday, Marcli 24tJi.—l went to the National 
Museum, where, after looking at some of the curiosities, 
among others the wonderful and beautiful feather cloak 
or war-cape of the kings from tlie Hawaiian Islands, tlie 
mummies, the chamber tomb from Italy, and other 
curiosities, I listened to a lecture on Assyriology, or the 
excavations in Nineveh and Babylon. The lecturer 
was very enthusiastic, but as he spoke in broken Eng- 
lish, it was rather difficult to follow his reading. 

Sunday, Marcli 25^^/^ — Miss Perry and I went to hear 



86 



Mrs. Livermore speak in the Universalist church. Her 
discourse was of much benefit to me, leading her hear- 
ers, as was its tendency, onward, onward and upward, 
in thought, in aspiration toward a higher life, and ten- 
derly dwelling on all the duties and affections of this. 

Good Friday, March 30th. — I took a car to Lafayette 
park, where I sat down or walked around and picked up 
some magnolia leaves, while I breathed the perfume of 
the grass and enjoyed the sunshine. Then I attended 
the services in St. John's church after which I rode in 
a car to Small's flower show, which I truly enjoyed. 
There was a perfect, bower of beauty and fragrance, a 
draping of orange branches and fruit over the door, a 
window full of lilies, roses and orchids, a center of roses, 
carnations, and many other flowers, and a mirror 
banked around with white spiraea. I saw the ranunculus 
in different varieties for the first time. There were 
cinerarias, daisies, lilies of the valley, and oh ! such a 
mass of loveliness that one would fain have rested there 
for an unlimited time, in tranquil enjoyment. 

Saturday, 3farch 31st. — Very warm. Miss Perry, 
her friend Mrs. Kichardson, and I went to the Woman's 
Convention which had occupied all of the past week. 
We had to climb to the gallery. We heard Susan B. 
Anthony, Mrs. Elizabeth Cady Stanton, who spoke quite 
distinctly, and Mrs. Lucy Stone, whom I could hardly 
hear, though her manner was pleasing, and who looked 
very matronly in her cap. Her husband gave an ad- 
mirable address in polished speech and tones. Fred 



WASHINGTON 87 

Douglas, the colored orator, made a stirring address, 
referring also to the time when he was dragged thirteen 
miles to be sold as a slave. John Hutchinson sang with 
much spirit. The stage was fully occupied by the pio- 
neers, women, in the cause of woman's suffrage, and the 
audience was very large. We came away before the 
conclusion of the meeting, as our time was limited. 

Faster Sunday, April 1st. — Fine and warm. I ac- 
cepted Miss Wood's invitation to go to the Metro- 
politan church, where I heard a good sermon by Dr. 
John jSFewman. His text was ''We have seen the 
Lord." He spoke of the advantages that had followed 
the Christian religion. As an illustration, also, of our 
friends waiting for us in heaven, he spoke of meeting 
on his travels in India, a merchant, who was going 
home to meet his family, after a long absence, on ac- 
count of ill health. As they neared the shore, a group 
consisting of wife, children, and servants were seen, all 
robed in white, ready to meet the husband, father, 
master. The mansion on the hill, the sloping lawn, 
the glad embraces and greetings were pictured with 
vivid clearness. The Christ on the cross, placed where 
all could see, as from different roads people came, 
brought the scene before the imagination as it was de- 
scribed. The blood and water from the pierced side of 
Jesus was explained by the fact that around the heart 
is a sac or pericardium. When a person is frenzied 
with grief or agony it is said that water forms in this 
sac. Hence when pierced, flowed the water and blood. 



88 



The platform was adorned with flowers. There was a 
cross of calla bk:)ssoms, besides man}^ other beautiful 
flowers, and verses of familiar hymns were sung between 
the pauses of the communion. 

Wednesday , April itli . — Avery fine day. We have 
had the first wild flowers. 

TJiursday, A])ril 5th. — Rainy and warm, so that the 
trees are budding, especially the flower buds of the 
white magnolia in Franklin Square Park, as also the 
Judas-tree. The yellow Forsyihia is in bloom. 

Friday, AjJril 6th. — Went to- see the cyclorama of 
the battle of Shiloh, the day being the anniversary of 
that fight. The lecturer was General Prentiss, who was 
present at the terrible encounter, and there surrendered 
after hard and bloody fighting of his troops. The 
Union forces on that day, twenty-six years ago, were 
hemmed in right and left by the Confederate Army. 
The field on which General Albert Sidney Johnson was 
killed was shown on the canvas. The soldiers' forms, 
taken from photographs, were lifelike in appearance. 
Tlie blue distances of sky and water and woods, and the 
Tennessee river were represented true to nature, and 
the whole gave a perfect idea of a battlefield. 

Sunday, April 8th. — Walked to the Unitarian 
church to hear Robert Collyer. The house was crowded. 
After standing awhile, I was given a seat near the door. 
The discourse was, *'The observance of Lent." The 
speaker did not approve of the custom. He thought 



ALEXANDRIA 89 

tliat Lent should be a self-denial and a practice of all 
of the virtues all our life, instead of at one season. 

Wednesday, April 11/^/^.— Clear and cool. Went 
to G street, and while waiting for the herdic at Lafayette 
Park picked up some magnolia leaves. 

Friday, April Vdth. — Cool and clear. After going to 
the shoemaker's I took a trip on the cars on New York 
avenue out to H street. 

Saturday, April 14^/i.— Rode in a street car to the 
market, bought some wild flowers and shopj^ed a 
little. This day is the anniversary of Lincoln's assassina- 
tion, also of father's landing from Liverpool in New 
York after a short trip to England and Scotland. 

Sunday, April 15?f/i.— Miss Perry and I went by street 
car to the station, where we went by rail car to Alexan- 
dria, where we arrived early enough to take a carriage, 
rather old and dilapidated, with an obliging colored boy 
driver, who for a very reasonable sum took us first to 
the Braddock house, where Washington and Braddock 
held their conferences, on the way showing us the steps 
where Colonel Ellsworth was shot. The landlord of the 
Braddock house very politely showed us the room in 
which the two distinguished men met. ''It remains," 
he said, ''exactly as then," with its thick walls four 
feet thick, painted in blue panels, low, deep-silled win- 
dows and a fire-place. The room is square in form. 
We were then shown the steps at the back of the house, 
facing the Potomac, and the small plot of ground in 



90 A wanderer's journal 

which are several trees, which are overgrown with 
weeds and wild violets, of the latter of which we picked 
a few. Tiie balcony is covered with wisteria, the stalk 
of which is five or six inches thick. We were told that 
in the time of Washington the river was nearer the 
house, with no obstructions between them, so that the 
view must have been very fine from the balcony above. 
Our attention was also drawn to the staircase of the 
hall, the top being of solid mahogany. Before the 
hotel was built in front, were grounds extending to the 
street. Now all that there are left at the foot of the steps 
are two small flower beds, one of lilies of the valley. 
We then drove to Christ church, where Washington 
worshipped and of which it is said he was vestryman. It 
seems to be a solid brick building. The pews have high 
backs, and are of panelled wood. The pulpit is of the 
old style, high and lofty. The railing of the organ loft 
is rounded like a bow. The singing w^as very enjoyable, 
and the service tolerable. After the service we went 
into the vestry, a very small room, and saw the table 
used for communion in those early days. It seemed 
about two feet and a half long and a foot wide. We 
also sat in Washington's pew and in the one formerly 
used by General Robert E. Lee, the former large and 
square, the latter of ordinary length. On the wall 
each side of the pulpit were two marble slabs, one 
in memory of Washington and one in memory of Lee. 
We walked through the church-yard, the grass of which 
was kept close-shaven, noting the different tombstones 
and their odd and quaint inscriptions. Some of the 



WASHINGTON 91 

stoties were long and flat in a horizontal position. On 
one of them was inscribed the position of the lady- 
lying beneath it. We walked to the station, where we 
sat awhile and partook of a light luncheon which we 
brought with us, then took a carriage, price fifty cents, 
and rode to the Union soldiers' cemetery, remained 
awhile in solemn meditation, noting the beautifully kept 
graves, of which there were 3,750 known and 103 
unknown. One of the inscriptions to the brave and 
memorized dead we noted: 

'^On fame's eternal camping ground. 
Their silent tents are spread 
Wnile glory marks with solemn round 
The bivouac of the dead." 

We started for Washington, by the same route, arriv- 
ing ill time for diuuer at 2:30 o'c lock p.m. 

We felt fully repaid for our trip in the remembered 
enjoyment. 

We kept and pressed the violets, as a reminder of one 
of the most agreeable jaunts we had taken, combining 
devotion aud real pleasure. 

Tuesday, A^jril 17//^.— Miss Stayers and I went to the 
Signal Service, street department, and I waited in 
a lower room, while Miss Stayers went np to the room 
where the instruments are. AVe then walked over to 
the State, War and Navy building, where we were prin- 
cipally interested in looking at the pictures of Greely's 
Arctic expedition, which brought those northern scenes 
vividly before the eye. 



92 A wanderer's journal 

Wednesday , Api'il ISfJi. — Miss Stayers and I took a 
ride around the city, in a brown car, stopped at the 
Agricultural grounds, sent home some seeds — they are 
sent free for the asking — asked for a bunch of magnolia 
blossoms which weie generously given, walked over to 
the monument, picked up some pieces of marble, and 
went to our boarding places. I was very tired. 

Friday, April 20tJi. — Miss Stayers amd I went to 
Georgetown by the street cars. On arriving there, we 
walked quite a little way on Thirty-sixth street, rested 
a little on the stones, and gazed on the river and oppo- 
site shore. We saw Mrs. Southworth^s cottage, a 
rather old brown wooden building with a Gothic point, a 
veranda, and on two sides of it a garden, with shrubbery 
in bloom, ])rincii)ally flowering currant. The gardens of 
the place seemed to be full of wild violets. We looked 
through the fence of one charming old-fashioned phice, 
with an arbor overlooking the river, and dug up some 
violets that grew outside of the wall. W^e sat quite a 
while on some stones, in a vacant lot, enjoying the view 
of the river and the new bridge across the Potomac. 
We called at Prospect Cottage, but the nuthoress, 
owner of the house, was away in New York. A pretty 
dark-eyed young girl answered our questions. We then 
returned home, enjoying the views of pretty gardens 
full of blooming hyacinths, tulips, and fruit-trees. In 
passing over P street bridge, over Rock creek, we looked 
away down on houses and gardens beneath us. In al- 
most all of the latter, there were peach trees full of pink 
bloom. 



WASHINGTON 93 

Saturday, April 21st. — p.m. Miss Stayers and I went 
to Albaugh's theatre to a matinee. The play was 
*' Much Ado About Nothing," in which Modjeska was 
the principal actress. She is a graceful woman, and 
dressed beautifully. 

Sunday, April 22f/.— Miss Wood and I went to Christ 
church, said to be the oldest church in AYashington, 
built, we were told, in Jackson's time. It is very 
plain, with no gallery, and pews with doors. 

Monday, April 236?.— Cool. Miss Stayers and I went 
by way of the Fourteenth street cars, changing for the 
Pennsylvania avenue cars, at the capitol, thence to the 
navy yard, then taking the Anacosta car east, across 
the Anacosta bridge. We walked a little Avay up the 
hill, then rested on some steps, admiring the scenery, 
the yards and fields gay with the bloom of fruit-trees. 
While sitting there an aged colored woman came, and 
also sat down to rest. She had been gathering chips, 
to make a fire for herself in her small room among the 
hills. She had been discharged from a hos])ital and 
was a perfect example of gratitude, for she told of the 
good care taken of her in the hospital, of people's kind- 
ness to her, of the goodness of God in providing a 
shelter for her, though it seemed that the small room 
had to be shared with others. 

Tuesday, April 24if/i^— Rode to the market in a street 
cur and bought some wild flowers to send home, keeping 
some of them, however, to place around the photo- 
graphs of father and mother. 



94 



Thursday f April 26th. — Warmer, fair, called on Mrs. 
Boyle. 

Sunday y Ajjril 29th. — Miss Wood and I went to Four- 
and-a-half street Presbyterian church. The day was 
very warm. In the evening Mr. and Mrs. Macdonough, 
Mary May and I walked over to the park. The flower- 
ing apple and cheriy are in full bloom, and also the 
Judas tree. 

Monday, A2)ril SOi^A. — The hottest day of the season. 
We suffered day and night from the heat. a.m. I went 
to F street for a short time. 

May 1st. Tuesday. — Showery, and the leaves are 
completely unfolded. 

Sunday, May 6th. — The day was very warm, so that 
we spent part of the day sitting under the trees in 
Franklin Square Park. The cotton from the cotton- 
wood trees covered the grass with white flakes that 
looked like snow. We rolled some of it into balls to 
take home as curiosities of the place. The trees were all 
in full leaf and many of them in full bloom, and we 
truly enjoyed their beauty. 

3fay Sth. Tuesday. — We started from Washington, 
and after a pleasant day's journey arrived in Jersey 
City about 4 o'clock, and crossed over by ferry to 
Brooklyn in time for a six o'clock dinner. 

Friday, May ISth. — Damp, ending in rain. Yesttr- 
day Thompson Macdonough and I took a ride in the 



BROOKLYN 96 

street car to Prospect Park, and enjoyed the trees, the 
grass, and looking at some wild geese and guinea fowl, 
and some deer in the enclosure. To-day we took the 
Green and Gates car to Ridgewood, which is not a very 
pleasant place. There are there the baseball grounds, a 
cemetery, some saloons and car stables. Queer combi- 
nations, or rather proximities ! We returned home by 
the Myrtle avenue cars to Fulton street and Clark 
street. What a varied prospect the route presented ! 
Now an avenue of beautiful mansions surrounded by 
lawns, trees and flowers, then lowly houses of one or 
two stories with their own kind of a garden or none, 
mere tenement houses, shops of all kinds, and elegant 
stores. In a harness shop was displayed a statue of a 
horse of life-size in the window. Mr. Warwick paid us 
a visit and stayed to lunch with us, which was very kind, 
as little Mary May having the scarlet fever, both she 
and her father and mother are quarantined in their 
suite of rooms, and Thompson Macdonough and I might 
have a lonely time were it not for the kindness of our 
friends. 

Sunday, the 20tJi, 1 spent at Mrs. Warwick's. Have 
had a terrible cold. 

Monday, 21st. — Thompson Macdonough and I drove 
in a coupe to the park and on the boulevard, then 
to the top of a hill or elevation in the park, command- 
ing a view of the sea, and where we inhaled the salt 
air. The foliage is now in full luxuriance, and many 
shrubs are in bloom. 



96 A wanderer's journal 

To-day, the 22clj Thompson and I went by the way of 
the street cars to Fort Hamilton. Part of the way 
tliey were propelled by a dummy engine. We passed 
lovely residences and many old farms and farm-houses, 
betokening solid comfort. What pretty drives could be 
taken on these country roads! My dear little niece, 
Mary May, is better to-night, though her life seems to 
hang on a frail and slender thread. 

Wednesday, May 2Sd. — Spent the day at Mrs. War- 
wick's. It has been rather rainy. 

Friday, May 2oth. — In the afternoon took dinner at 
Mrs. Warwick's, the day being Mrs. Warwick's birth- 
day. 

Saturday, May 26th. — Mary May worse, with conges- 
tion of the lungs. 

Sunday, May 21th. — Rode in a street car to Mrs. 
Warwick's. Mary May a little better, though very ill. 

Monday, May 28th. — Thompson and I went by street 
car to the park, and rode around it in the park phae- 
ton. The dogwood, horse-chestnut, red and white, 
and many flowering shrubs are in bloom. Rainy in p.m., 
ending in a violent rain-storm in the evening, with 
thunder and lightning and high wind. 

Tuesday, May 29th. — Thompson and I took the 
Flatbush avenue cars at iO o'clock, from Clark street, 
to the Flatbush avenue station, then the steam cars to 
Brighton Beach after a ride of twenty minutes, having. 



BROOKLYN 97 

however, to walk one-quarter of a mile to the beach, 
where we sat and inhaled the sea air until it was time 
to return, when we again admired the loveliness of the 
country after the rain. We passed farm-houses nestled 
among the trees, and vegetable gardens. While wait 
ing at the Flatbush station we picked some flowers and 
grasses by the roadside, where evidently there had 
been a garden ; for there were stars of Bethlehem and 
periwinkle, snow-drop shrubs and acacia trees. On ar- 
riving at the hotel we were glad to learn that Mary 
May was better. Mrs. Warwick lunched with us. 

Wednesclmj, May dOth.—l spent the day at Mrs 
Warwick's. Mary May is a little better ; Mr. Macdon- 
ough ill. Heavy shower at night. 

Fridatj, June Is^f.— Saturday and Sunday I stayed in 
the house, on account of Thompson's illness, though 
the days were fine, until Sunday p.m. when Mr. War- 
wick accompanied me on a street car to East New York, 
returning by the elevated railway, passing through a 
delightful portion of the city. Yet I was very tired 
after the journey. 

3f07idaij, June Uh.—YmQ and cool. Very tired from 
having had neuralgia, p.m., wishing for air, I took a 
ride on the Flatbush avenue cars to the end of the route, 
passing by the way charming old places, the grounds 
being ornamented with flowers and grand old trees, the 
houses being quaint in structure. In one garden were 
two lovely wisterias, one white and one purple, trained 
on old trees. 



98 A wanderer's journal 

Tuesday, June bth. — Although very lame I rode in 
the street car with Thompson to the park and return, 
having to rest afterward. After lunch I wrote home. 

Wednesday, June 6tJi. — Thompson and I went to 
Long Beach, and arrived there about 13 o'clock noon. 
We had to change at Jamaica, and at Pearsall. We 
passed many lovely spots, among which were Wood- 
haven and Morris Park, where there were beautiful res- 
idences and grounds laid out with most perfect taste. 
The country was in a lovely dress of green. The waves 
at the beach rolled up in glorious style. We ate our 
sandwiches with a relish. I reclined on the sand, with 
my shawl wrapped around me, and my umbrella over 
my head, while my nephew roamed over the beach. I 
picked up a few shells to add to those gathered by 
Thompson. We noticed on our return trip, at one of the 
small stopping places, that the yards of some of the 
houses extended to the edge of the water, which was 
formed into a creek by the extension of a branch of the 
sea into the marsh, where their row-boats were waiting 
for use. Evidently the inhabitants were fishermen. 
There seemed to be miles and miles of marsh. 

Thursday, June "^tli. — Spent at Mrs. Warwick's. 

Friday, June Sfh. — Thompson and I went to Pros- 
pect Park, where we sat under the trees, and walked a 
little way looking at the tame deer in the enclosure, and 
admiring the shrubs in flower. Thompson gathered a 
bouquet of white clover, part of which I brought home 



NEW YORK HARBOR 99 

to dear little Mary May, who is improving, and whose 
life we hope will be saved. 

Saturdaij, June 9fJi. — Thompson and I took the 
street cars to Flatbush avenue and returned in the after- 
noon. I went to a florist's and bonght a bouquet for 
sister Allie's birthday, which will be to-morrow. 

Simdaij, June 20//^.— Called at Mrs. Warwick's. 

Monday, lltlijune. — Thompson and I took the Flat- 
bush avenue car to Prospect Park station, where we took 
a steam-car to Brighton Beach. We had to walk a long 
way across tracks, among rubbish and stones, and sand, 
to reach the beach. The tide was low, which left quite 
a wide stretch of sand on which people were walking. 
We sat on some low posts and watched the waves and 
tlie distant sail-boats and shores until a little before 
five P.M., when we again walked to the cars, by which 
we were rapidly whirled past farms, fields of daisies, 
pretty woodlands and quaint old houses, through two 
small tunnels to the city and by street cars to the hotel. 

Tuesday, June 12th. — Thompson Macdonough and I, 
going down to the dock by street car, went on board the 
boat BisJioj), and sailing past the west side of Governor's 
Island, having on one side a view of Brooklyn with its res- 
idences and flower-terraced grounds, docks, storehouses, 
Fort Hamilton in the distance and a fleet of yachts. 
After passing Governor's Island with its green shores, 
we came in view of the Jersey shore, part of it fronted 
by docks with ocean ships, and some of it by old and 



i 'JO. 



100 A wanderer's journal 

handsome miinsioiis surrounded by beautiful grounds 
extending to the water's edge. Then Staten Island, on 
the high ground of whicli were houses some in castle 
style, sonieiu colonial style with wooden pillars in front. 
We had to walk quite a stretch of dock before we reached 
the street, when we took a carriage to the enclosure 
where Buffalo Bill — Col. William Cody — his Indians 
and cow-boys, gave illustrations of Western prowess in 
shooting and horsemanship, both of which were wonder- 
ful. Bands of several different tribes in full war cos- 
tume rode and formed in a body and in line ; the chief 
of each tribe riding alone and standing alone in front of 
the band. The cow-boys also showed their manner of 
riding, and the manner in which the pony express was 
managed, the dexterous and quick changing of the sad- 
dle from one pony to the next, fresh horses being ready 
at intervals. There were races between white or Amer- 
ican girls and Indian girls, the former of whom proved 
themselves accomplished riders and one of whom was 
quick and true in managing the gun. There were 
shooting by Buffalo Bill on foot, aiming at saucers 
thrown in the air, and by Buffalo Bill on horseback at 
glass balls thrown by an Indian, also on horseback, and 
by cow-boys on foot. 'Jlie attack and repulse of an em- 
igrant train and the old mail coach drawn by black mules, 
was acted. The stealthy manner of an Indian approach 
was shown and their dispersal by cow-boys. The Indian 
war-dance was a fit enactment of the hideous reality. 
The Virginia reel on horseback by cow-boys and Ameri- 
can girls was pretty, skillfully executed and graceful^ 



ASBURY PARK 101 

as also tlie wonderfully beautiful performance of ahorse 
controlled by his girl rider ; he kept time to the music, 
and rose on his hind feet now and then, thus saluting 
the audience. The manner of hunting the buffalo was 
shown by pursuing a herd of tame ones with blank cart- 
ridge. The animals, among which were two baby buffa- 
loes, seemed quite trained for tlie performance. The 
grove in which were the tents, was very beautiful. The 
return sail was delightful. We passed very near the 
famous statue of Liberty Enlightening the World, 
and reached our hotel tired, but glad that we had see 
the famed Indian tamer. 

Wednesday, June lotli. — Spent the day at Mrs. War- 
wick's. After lunch Ada Neal, Mrs. Warwick's 
daughter, took me for a long drive through Prospect 
Park. 

Sunday, June lltli. — Mary May being better, though 
not yet able to walk, we all took a drive of two hours to 
the park. p.m. — Called to ask about Mrs. Warwick, who 
s very ill. 

Monday, June 18///. — In the morning had to go to the 
shops and found them very oppressive. 

Tuesday, June 18th. — We started at 2 o'clock p.m., in 
a carriage to the ferry ; then from the ferry to the train, 
and after passing through a beautiful farming country, 
some fields of daisies delighting our eyes, we reached As- 
bury Park at 6 o'clock p.m. 



102 A wanderer's journal 

WeduescJai/, June 20th. — Warm. We went down on 
the beach wliere Mary May had a play in tlie sand. 

Thursday, June "iiXst. — Warm. Tliis morning all 
went to the beach and rested on the sand, where we 
watched the waves dashing, and a few bathers in the 
surf. Mary May is improving rapidly in this sea air» 
Brother Bird's birthday. 

June 2Sth. Thursday, — A raging storm on the- 
Atlantic, the waves rolling on the beach in a sheet of 
foam as we can see, for a long stretch of coast-line. We 
moved from the St. James to the Oriental, but not 
quite liking the situation, we again moved to the Bruns- 
wick, from which we have a fine sea view and breeze. 
Mary May can walk and is improving. Yesterday we 
took a drive to Long Branch. The country was fra- 
grant with the perfume of clover hay and wild flowers 
mingled with the ocean breeze, and the fields were 
white with daisies. We passed Sunset Lake in which 
were small row-boats and pretty, small round islands, 
around which people were rowing. Deal Lake, with its 
pretty beach on which row-boats were waiting for occu- 
pants, near a cunning little bower of a house where 
refreshments were sold and rabbits were frolicking, and 
where art in the shape of a curious statue of a woman 
in blue painted costume, held guard over some gera- 
niums, is a pretty lake with a life-saving station on one 
side between tlie lake and the ocean, and seemed to 
extend, Avitli its wooded shores, quite far into the 
country. I noticed a carriage road around it on one 



LONG BRANCH 103 

side, and thought how enjoyable it would be to follow 
its windings. We crossed, by a bridge, another lake 
which the driver told us was Takanasse Lake. On the 
right, near the road- side, we passed two delightful farm- 
houses, one of which the driver informed us was one of 
the oldest in that part of the country, and one could 
quite imagine it a quaint and restful place for Summer, 
in the midst of green fields. Carriages were kept to 
convey the bathers to the not far distant ocean beach. 
Our attention was drawn to an unoccupied house, said 
to be 150 years old, now without dwellers. Beautiful 
cottages adorned the landscape. Then after a stretch of 
breezy country road, we came to the west end of Long 
Branch. Among the lovely summer dwellings of varied 
and attractive designs, Elberon cottage, where Garfield 
spent his dying hours, was pointed out to us — a very 
unpretentious one witli plain red facings, but in full 
view of the sea. General Grant's cottage was also 
plainly finished in a kind of grey color. George W. 
Childs^ cottage was ablaze with flowers. There were 
three houses where Mr^. Winslow, of soothing syrup 
fame, and htr daughters, we are told, make their 
summer home. They did not seem to me quite as 
attractive as many of the others. Some of the houses 
were of black and white with greenish trimmings, but 
that did not seem to me as pretty as the brighter finish- 
ings. One, however, trimmed in fawn color of varied 
shades was neat and pretty. The stables, tastefully 
built and well kept, added much to the attractiveness of 
the grounds, many of which were gay with flowers, and 



104 A wanderer's journal 

ill all the eye was refreshed with well kept lawns. We- 
drove through the Hoey Park, magnificent in dimen- 
sions, a large yellow house in the center and a lavish 
display of green-houses, equaling the Washington hor- 
ticultural gardens. Statuary ornamented the lawns. Not 
far from one of the entrances a pretty railroad station was 
being built, thus completing the convenience of this ele- 
gant place, enabling the owner to alight almost at his 
own door. We then drove through Long Branch passing 
hotels that faced the ocean, which did not seem to ns 
as easy of access as Asbury Park. Under the bluffs are 
the bathing houses and grounds, the former seeming to 
be of rougli boards and not finished as at Asbury Park. 
A long pier extends into the sea, a landing-place, I 
suppose, for steamers. There were the usual fruit and 
fancy stores, some dry goods stores, and saloons and res- 
taurants, and an elegant club-house with a profusion of 
flowers adding to the attraction of the building. The 
beautiful Hollywood Hotel formed quite a contrast to 
the plainer buildings, though the plain ones might have 
been quite as comfortable. Turning homeward after buy- 
ing some fruit, we met a continual line of fine equipages, 
representing the style of Long Branch. Then again 
past the fragrant fields, stopp'ng, however, that our 
little Mary May, still delicate, might be lifted out of the 
carriage and placed in the midst of the daisies, to pick 
at her own sweet will. In her cunning child-language 
she said that she did not like to '^muss the daisies" 
when placed among them. Then on, now admiring 
the hay piled in mounds ready for storage, then repeat- 



DETROIT 105 

ing the charming view of cottages, gardens, woods, 
fields, lakes and ocean. We arrived at our hotel in 
time for supper, at a few. minutes past six o'clock, all 
enchanted and benefited by the drive which brought the 
pink color into my little niece's cheeks, and I fancied, 
brightened my sister though she grew very tired, hold- 
ing her sleeping daughter a part of the way. We sat 
on the veranda pretty late, and retired happy that we 
had enjoyed so beautiful a scene. 

Friday, Jtme 29^/^.— Another stormy, rainy day, 
though clearing in the afternoon. At night we were 
so cold that we had to sleep under blankets. 

Saturday, June 30^^^.— Fine, clear, cold a.m., grow- 
ing warmer in the afternoon and evening. We all went 
to the shops this morning buying toys and presents for 
home people. Mary May is improving, so that she can 
walk quite a good deal. 

j^ly 2f/.— Started from Asbury Park at 1 o'clock and 
fifteen minutes, in the cars for New York, ferrying over 
from Jersey City and taking the night boat to Albany. 

Some of us watched the scenery until dark. Unfor- 
tunately we could not procure sufficient sleeping room ; 
so that we had to make the best of the night without 
undressing. Arriving at Albany, we staye,d at the Dela- 
van until the one o'clock train, which we took, reaching 
Buffalo at about 8 o'clock p.m. very tired. 

July 4:th. — Wednesday, at 1 o'clock, we started on the 
way- train, arriving at Detroit quite early in the after- 
noon. 



106 A wanderer's journal 

We remained there until the following Tuesday when 
we went on the Michigan Central train, arriving at 
Cheboygan early in the evening, and driving to Duncan, 
where we have had a cool Summer, varied by trips ta 
the Island of Mackinac, once to witness a sham battle; 
after which we walked across the field to the camping 
ground, picturesque with the white tents arranged un- 
der the protecting shadow of the fort, with dark firs for 
a background. Then we strolled across to Plank's hotel, 
on the broad piazza of which we rested. Dining at six,, 
with the music of a fine band for accompaniment, we 
took a trip across the water by starlight. Again we 
visited the fair isle to see a yacht race, in which our 
Canadian neighbors won, and carried away the cup. 
The view from the piazza of the hotel is superb. We 
watched the beautiful changing colors of water and sky, 
with yachts and sail-boats, large and small, like white 
birds breastiug the waves, the shore of the mainland on 
one side, Bois Blanc and Bound Island on the other, 
clad in the rich green woodland garments of firs and 
pines, edged with a line of pebbly beach. We also over- 
looked the town and beach of Mackinac Island. After 
dinner, we watched for a while the moonlight shining 
with silvery rays on the water, then embarked for a 
moonlight ride across its depths. A few rides to the 
woods also somewhat broke the monotony — to the 
woods fragrant with cedar and hemlock, and carpeted 
with mosses. AVe brought home our treasures of autumn 
leaves, and the curious fungus that is attached to th& 
old trees. 



AT HOME 107 

Mv. 2Wi. Thnrsdat/.—We spent our Thanksgiving 
nt our brotlier's house, some of our party having en joyed 
service at St. James cliurcli, Cheboygan. 

Mv. 30th. Fridcnj.—QoU and stormy with bleak 
winds. AVe expect next week to start upon another 
journey. 



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